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Southwold 2020

Wednesday, 31st January 2024 by Thomas Parker MW

I always look back at my En Primeur notes a few days before the Southwold Group tasting to reacquaint myself with the vintage and my early impressions. Spring 2021 was beset by more restricted travel due to COVID and we tasted samples in London, keeping to the socially distanced regulations of the time. The novelty had worn off from the experience with 2019 and I ended up with hundreds of open samples in my garage, wading through and tasting twice or three times where possible to get a full impression. Perhaps it was a combination of tasting away from the region and the manner in which the samples had to be drawn and shipped, but the 2020s were a little awkward to taste. The quality was clearly there but many wines were stubborn, firm or struggling to knit together, much in the mould of 2010s from barrel, though not quite as powerful in fruit or structure, high in alcohol or dark in colour. The wines were often profound, deep and vertical with great length and very measured ripeness. The vintage clearly had the potential to be great, though could it reach the heights of the stellar 2016 and 2019?

In the interim I have tasted the vintage often, a few châteaux at a time, and the wines are improving as they start to age in bottle; unfurling slowly aromatically and piecing together their structural elements, revealing great purity and intrigue. As such my expectations for this tasting were high. Critical review had certainly inflated the vintage in bottle, with both William Kelley and Neal Martin considering whether the vintage is indeed superior to 2019. The group assembled over three days to taste over 300 of the best and most famous names blind in flights to see both how the vintage stacked up as a whole, and which châteaux would rise to the top. Neal Martin and Julia Harding MW were in attendance along with buyers from the assembled UK trade; half the tasters are masters of wine.

Saint Emilion

As I wrote in the 2019 report, this appellation is most improved in the last decade. There is largely a much clearer translation from soil to glass, with few examples of the over-extraction, over-oaking or over-ripeness that plagued the wines a decade ago. Canon is magnificent in 2020 and was my personal top score here, discreet with a superb texture and depth. The group winner was Figeac, a dense and powerful wine with great potential. Cheval Blanc was just behind with Angélus a commendable third – the slight shift in style at this property is certainly reaping rewards as the wine is now more chiselled and streamlined. The value pick is Berliquet, a property that is going from strength to strength under Chanel’s ownership.

Pomerol

There are some stellar Pomerols in 2020 - Merlot was a great success in the right hands. Eglise Clinet was the top right bank wine overall and beat all but one of the left bank first growths (more on that later). It came top both for the group and in my own rating, and is a powerful, complex wine that needs time to open up but is bursting with potential - it could well become the wine of the vintage. There are many great wines that can be bought with confidence and which all translate their styles brilliantly this year. The Moueix stable was particularly strong, both Trotanoy and La Fleur Pétrus were highlights. The Lalande de Pomerol Les Cruzelles gets an honourable mention for outscoring many famous Pomerols; the Durantous did stellar work in this vintage despite their tragic loss.

Pessac-Léognan

It is no surprise that the two Dillon wines were the top scorers this year, but La Mission did beat its stablemate Haut Brion to top spot. The appellation was a little more varied overall with different styles and some more perceptable alcohol, but Pape Clément’s increasing refinement is becoming clearer each year, and Smith Haut Lafitte was a strong performer as always. I personally loved Les Carmes Haut Brion – it is idiosyncratic and fairly easy to spot blind thanks to the overt influence of whole-bunch fermentation, but the underlying quality is quite brilliant. I will be buying a case for my cellar.

Margaux

Margaux produced some outstanding wine in 2020 to fit all price points, the vintage allowing the appellation’s ethereal fragrance to shine. Château Margaux itself was the top scoring first growth, tying with Eglise Clinet in the upper echelons of the leader board. It will vie with a handful of names to be wine of the vintage. Brane Cantenac is on real form in recent vintages, and was the second-best wine in this appellation, making it outstanding value for money. The 2020 and 2019 will be held as great vintages at this property for decades to come. Rauzan Ségla was a reliably strong performer but the second wine, Ségla (not yet released), was perhaps the biggest overperformer in the appellation, beating many first wines from famous châteaux due to its deft balance, supple tannins and moreish drinkability.

Saint Julien

Always a consistent flight, the leaderboard here was tightly stacked and many wines can be bought with real confidence in 2020. The chiselled nature of the vintage is very suited to St Julien, the wines building fleshy fruit cores on strong tannic bones. These wines will age beautifully in bottle but they do need time. Léoville Poyferré just edged to the top – this was an impressive wine from barrel, and is now arguably stronger than the excellent 2019. Beychevelle had the strongest performance in recent years at this tasting and of course both Bartons and Léoville Las Cases did well. Langoa Barton looks a great buy when considering its price versus the other names in this line up.

Pauillac

The beating heart of the northern Médoc did not disappoint. Mouton Rothschild and Latour were both very strong performers and need real time in bottle to unfurl and grow into themselves. This was a theme for Pauillac this year – many of the wines are very muscular and I expect will shut down for some years before revealing their potential at a decade or more old. The pick of the bunch to buy must be Pichon Lalande. This is first growth quality in 2020, with a group score that competes with the very best the vintage has to offer – it is a luxurious, sophisticated and harmonious wine, beautifully judged in a manner that brings hedonistic joy to the cerebral nature of 2020. Pichon Baron is also impressive, a laser-focused vin de garde. For those looking to better value, Grand Puy Lacoste once more bested many more expensive wines, it is subtle and understated yet beautifully delineated, a wine for the mid-to-long term.

Saint Estèphe

Despite an absence of first growths, Saint Estèphe has produced a monument in 2020. Montrose has become a first growth in all but name in recent years, and the 2020 may well be the best of the lot. It was the breakaway winner of the appellation and vied with the very best names overall. It tied my personal top four wines of the vintage, together with Eglise Clinet, Margaux and Canon, all of which I scored equally. For a fraction of the price, Tronquoy (not yet released) is a must buy again this year, beating all other St Estèphes save the Montrose. Made by the same team, this property is producing some of the best value wine in all Bordeaux right now, a mini-Montrose in style with rounded edges and a glistening, approachable texture. The wines overall were chewy and structured as we expected, but Phélan Ségur was very impressive and more approachable than most.

Dry/Sweet White

A brief note on the dry and sweet whites. They offer early drinking appeal and are soft and fleshy, but both lack the acidity, intensity or vibrancy that gets me excited. There are better recent vintages to buy, and often older vintages can be procured at similar or lower prices.

Conclusions

2020 was not an easy vintage to taste at this early stage. Stylistically it falls into the same category as 2010 and 2016: cerebral, structured and full of potential, but needing time in bottle and patience in the cellar. The peaks are extremely high, and the best wines are not always the most expensive, democratising the region and giving collectors reason to be enthusiastic even if the first growths are out of reach. The consistency throughout the region is more debatable, though. 2016 remains my favourite vintage of the last decade, the wines are chiselled, youthful and full of verve, and though the best 2020s rank with their counterpart 2016s, this isn't a year to buy blind.

Is it better than 2019? Personally, I think there is more to enjoy in the solar, vibrant and silkier textured 19s. 2019 is more consistent too. Yes, 2020 is likely more concentrated, and tasters can rave about the wines’ precision, density and balance at its best. But the structure is significant, and in lesser wines obtrusive to joy. The successes run deeper through the region in 2019 as a result and there is an easy balance to most wines. At times we can get too tied up in the intrigue of a wine to realise that we are supposed to enjoy drinking them, and that is what 2019 does so well. The 2020s are thinking wines, and the 2019s drinking wines. Both have a place in the cellar and will doubtless cause debate over the years, much like ’89 and ’90 or ’09 and ’10. What is certain is that Bordeaux has never had so many high-quality vintages for drinkers to enjoy, no matter their stylistic preference.

Personal Wines of the vintage:
Montrose, Eglise Clinet, Margaux & Canon

Wines to buy:
Les Carmes Haut Brion, La Fleur Pétrus, Léoville Poyferré, Pichon Lalande, Trotanoy

Best Affordable Quality:
Berliquet, Brane Cantenac, Les Cruzelles, Grand Puy Lacoste, Langoa Barton, Ségla (not yet released), Tronquoy (not yet released)

Top Wines by Appellation:
Saint Emilion - Figeac
Pomerol - Eglise Clinet
Pessac-Léognan - La Mission Haut Brion
Margaux - Margaux
Saint Julien - Léoville Poyferré
Pauillac - Mouton Rothschild / Pichon Lalande
Saint Estèphe - Montrose

Vintage ranking, decade to 2020 :
Top tier: 2016, 2019, 2020 (at its peak)
Second tier: 2018, 2015, 2014 (northern Médoc)
Third tier: 2014 (elsewhere), 2017, 2012, 2011
Bringing up the rear: 2013

See also:

jancisrobinson.com

vinolent.net

ColourRegionVintageWineQtySizeUnitsPrice IB GBPPerScore
Bordeaux2020Bordeaux Collection (9 bottle 1st Growth Case)

Contains: Lafite, Mouton, Margaux, Haut Brion, Mission, Petrus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc & Yquem

1 \ 09×75cl107,200.009 Bordeaux Collection (9 bottle 1st Growth Case)
Bordeaux2020L’Hêtre2 \ 06×75cl10115.00690 WKL'Hetre
Bordeaux2020Laroque61×6L10185.00197 LPBLaroque
Bordeaux2020Marquis de Terme2 \ 012×75cl10350.001293 NMMarquis de Terme
Bordeaux2020Le Prieuré1 \ 012×75cl10270.0012 Prieure
Bordeaux2020Talbot Caillou Blanc2 \ 06×75cl30150.00692 JATalbot Caillou Blanc
Bordeaux2020Angelus Hommage a Elisabeth Bouchet

Individual OWC

61×75cl101,320.001 Angelus Hommage a Elisabeth Bouchet
Bordeaux2020Batailley1 \ 024×37.5cl10320.002495 NMBatailley
Bordeaux2020Batailley1 \ 06×1.5L10300.00695 NMBatailley
Bordeaux2020Beau-Séjour Bécot10 \ 0 6×1.5L10520.00695+ WKBeausejour Becot
Bordeaux2020Beau-Séjour Bécot81×3L10225.00195+ WKBeausejour Becot
Bordeaux2020Beau-Séjour Bécot21×6L10450.00195+ WKBeausejour Becot
Bordeaux2020Beychevelle3 \ 03×1.5L10370.00393+ WKBeychevelle
Bordeaux2020Beychevelle21×3L10265.00193+ WKBeychevelle
Bordeaux2020Beychevelle11×6L10500.00193+ WKBeychevelle
Bordeaux2020Brane Cantenac2 \ 06×75cl10275.00698 JSBrane Cantenac
Bordeaux2020Calon Ségur1 \ 06×1.5L10900.00697 WKCalon Segur
Bordeaux2020Calon Ségur11×6L10700.00197 WKCalon Segur
Bordeaux2020Cantenac Brown1 \ 012×75cl10360.001294+ WKCantenac Brown
Bordeaux2020Capbern5 \ 024×37.5cl10214.002491 WKCapbern
Bordeaux2020Capbern20 \ 0 12×75cl10185.001291 WKCapbern
Bordeaux2020Carignan38 \ 0 6×1.5L10105.006 Carignan
Bordeaux2020Les Carmes Haut Brion0 \ 612×75cl10980.0012100 AGCarmes Haut Brion
Bordeaux2020Les Carmes Haut Brion51×3L10530.001100 AGCarmes Haut Brion
Bordeaux2020La Chapelle de la Mission6 \ 06×75cl10275.00696 JSChapelle de la Mission
Bordeaux2020Le Petit Cheval Blanc18 \ 0 3×75cl30262.50392 NMPetit Cheval Blanc
Bordeaux2020Clinet1 \ 612×75cl10650.001298 JSClinet
Bordeaux2020Clinet11×3L10300.00198 JSClinet
Bordeaux2020Clinet11×6L10590.00198 JSClinet
Bordeaux2020Clos Fourtet31×6L10640.00198 LPBClos Fourtet
Bordeaux2020La Clotte2 \ 06×75cl10190.00696 NMClotte
Bordeaux2020La Clotte0 \ 36×1.5L10360.00696 NMClotte
Bordeaux2020Cos d'Estournel11×3L10600.00198 JSCos d'Estournel
Bordeaux2020Cos d'Estournel11×6L101,200.00198 JSCos d'Estournel
Bordeaux2020Coutet5 \ 012×75cl40250.001293 NMCoutet
Bordeaux2020Domaine de Chevalier15 \ 6 12×75cl10500.001295+ WKDomaine de Chevalier Rouge
Bordeaux2020Domaine de Chevalier101×3L10198.00195+ WKDomaine de Chevalier Rouge
Bordeaux2020Ducru Beaucaillou51×6L101,100.001100 JDDucru Beaucaillou
Bordeaux2020Durfort Vivens5 \ 012×75cl10540.001296 AGDurfort Vivens
Bordeaux2020Durfort Vivens5 \ 06×1.5L10540.00696 AGDurfort Vivens
Bordeaux2020L'Eglise Clinet1 \ 012×75cl102,200.001299 LPBEglise Clinet
Bordeaux2020de Fieuzal Blanc3 \ 012×75cl30396.001293 WKFieuzal Blanc
Bordeaux2020Figeac11×9L101,800.001100 WKFigeac
Bordeaux2020Petit Figeac (2nd wine of Figeac)2 \ 06×1.5L10450.00694 JDPetit Figeac (2nd wine of Figeac)
Bordeaux2020Petit Figeac (2nd wine of Figeac)11×3L10180.00194 JDPetit Figeac (2nd wine of Figeac)
Bordeaux2020La Fleur Pétrus3 \ 06×75cl10850.006100 JSFleur Petrus
Bordeaux2020La Gaffelière1 \ 012×75cl10495.001295 WKGaffeliere
Bordeaux2020La Gaffelière11×3L10275.00195 WKGaffeliere
Bordeaux2020Grand Puy Lacoste51×3L10230.00197 NMGrand Puy Lacoste
Bordeaux2020Grand Puy Lacoste61×6L10430.00197 NMGrand Puy Lacoste
Bordeaux2020Gruaud Larose1 \ 012×75cl10660.001296 WKGruaud Larose
Bordeaux2020Haut Bailly New1 \ 03×1.5L10390.00399 LPBHaut Bailly
Bordeaux2020Haut Batailley2 \ 012×75cl10440.001295 NMHaut Batailley
Bordeaux2020Haut Brion Blanc0 \ 312×75cl30550.00198 LPBHaut Brion Blanc
Bordeaux2020Issan4 \ 612×75cl10420.001294+ WKIssan
Bordeaux2020C de Sec du Chateau Closiot1 \ 012×75cl3075.001294 WKC de Sec du Chateau Closiot
Bordeaux2020Les Pensées de Lafleur1 \ 312×75cl101,350.001295+ WKPensees de Lafleur
Bordeaux2020Perrieres de Lafleur New9 \ 06×75cl10220.00694+ WKPerrieres de Lafleur
Bordeaux2020Langoa Barton3 \ 06×75cl10150.00695 NMLangoa Barton
Bordeaux2020Langoa Barton11×6L10320.00195 NMLangoa Barton
Bordeaux2020Pauillac de Latour100 \ 0  6×75cl10320.00694 JSPauillac de Latour
Bordeaux2020Pauillac de Latour3 \ 03×1.5L10330.00394 JSPauillac de Latour
Bordeaux2020Latour à Pomerol0 \ 36×1.5L10600.00694 WKLatour a Pomerol
Bordeaux2020Léoville Barton5 \ 03×1.5L10350.00398 LPBLeoville Barton
Bordeaux2020Léoville Barton21×3L10280.00198 LPBLeoville Barton
Bordeaux2020Léoville Poyferré21 \ 0 12×75cl10780.001297 NMLeoville Poyferre
Bordeaux2020Léoville Poyferré15 \ 0 6×1.5L10800.00697 NMLeoville Poyferre
Bordeaux2020Léoville Poyferré11×6L10580.00197 NMLeoville Poyferre
Bordeaux2020Clos du Marquis1 \ 012×75cl10450.001293+ WKClos du Marquis
Bordeaux2020Petit Lion de Las Cases2 \ 012×75cl10504.001292/94 AGPetit Lion de Las Cases
Bordeaux2020Lynch Bages11×3L10370.00199 JSLynch Bages
Bordeaux2020Lynch Bages11×6L10740.00199 JSLynch Bages
Bordeaux2020Margaux2 \ 06×75cl102,200.006100 JSMargaux
Bordeaux2020Margaux0 \ 36×1.5L104,450.006100 JSMargaux
Bordeaux2020Monbousquet Blanc10 \ 0 6×75cl30187.50690/92 NMMonbousquet Blanc
Bordeaux2020Montrose10 \ 0 12×75cl101,600.0012100 WKMontrose
Bordeaux2020Montrose4 \ 03×1.5L10800.003100 WKMontrose
Bordeaux2020Le Petit Mouton19 \ 0 12×75cl101,680.001298 JSPetit Mouton
Bordeaux2020Palmer New2 \ 06×75cl10900.00697 WKPalmer
Bordeaux2020Palmer11×3L10880.00197 WKPalmer
Bordeaux2020Palmer11×6L101,950.00197 WKPalmer
Bordeaux2020Pape Clément41×3L10240.00198 JSPape Clement Rouge
Bordeaux2020Pape Clément41×6L10465.00198 JSPape Clement Rouge
Bordeaux2020Pape Clément Blanc1 \ 012×75cl301,050.0012100 JDPape Clement Blanc
Bordeaux2020Paveil de Luze16 \ 0 12×75cl10180.001292 WKPaveil de Luze
Bordeaux2020Pavie0 \ 612×75cl102,100.0012100 JSPavie
Bordeaux2020Pavie Macquin0 \ 612×75cl10700.0012100 AGPavie Macquin
Bordeaux2020Pavie Macquin21×3L10280.001100 AGPavie Macquin
Bordeaux2020Pichon Baron61×3L10430.00199 JSPichon Baron
Bordeaux2020Pichon Baron11×6L10880.00199 JSPichon Baron
Bordeaux2020Pichon Lalande41×3L10525.00199 NMPichon Lalande
Bordeaux2020Rauzan Ségla2 \ 012×75cl10670.001298 WKRauzan Segla
Bordeaux2020Siran8 \ 012×75cl10250.001295 JSSiran
Bordeaux2020Les Hauts de Smith23 \ 0 24×37.5cl10250.002490 WKHauts de Smith Rouge
Bordeaux2020Smith Haut Lafitte0 \ 612×75cl10950.0012100 JDSmith Haut Lafitte Rouge
Bordeaux2020Smith Haut Lafitte51×3L10330.001100 JDSmith Haut Lafitte Rouge
Bordeaux2020Smith Haut Lafitte41×6L10700.001100 JDSmith Haut Lafitte Rouge
Bordeaux2020Talbot3 \ 012×75cl10480.001290 WKTalbot
Bordeaux2020Talbot61×3L10175.00190 WKTalbot
Bordeaux2020Tour Saint Christophe9 \ 012×75cl10260.001295 LPBTour St Christophe
Bordeaux2020Mondot (2nd Wine of Troplong Mondot)10 \ 0 12×75cl10290.001293 WKMondot (2nd wine of Troplong Mondot)
Bordeaux2020Troplong Mondot101×3L10295.001100 GHTroplong Mondot
Bordeaux2020Troplong Mondot31×6L10595.001100 GHTroplong Mondot
Bordeaux2020Trottevieille5 \ 012×75cl10680.001298 JSTrottevieille
Bordeaux2020La Gravette de Certan6 \ 06×75cl10300.00691 WKGravette de Certan
Bordeaux2020La Chenade4 \ 012×75cl10165.001292 NMChenade
Bordeaux2020Les Cruzelles3 \ 012×75cl10220.001294 JACruzelles
Bordeaux2020Les Cruzelles2 \ 06×75cl10110.00694 JACruzelles
Bordeaux2020Les Cruzelles1 \ 06×1.5L10220.00694 JACruzelles
Bordeaux2020Montlandrie25 \ 0 12×75cl10180.001295+ LPBMontlandrie
Bordeaux2020Montlandrie8 \ 06×1.5L10180.00695+ LPBMontlandrie
Bordeaux2020Saintayme/Saintem35 \ 0 12×75cl10138.001293 JASaintayme/Saintem
Bordeaux2020Y d'Yquem (Ygrec)0 \ 36×1.5L301,440.00693+ LPBY d'Yquem (Ygrec)
Bordeaux2020Yquem1 \ 06×75cl401,275.00697+ LPBYquem
Bordeaux2020Yquem21×3L40900.00197+ LPBYquem
Bordeaux2020Yquem41×6L401,800.00197+ LPBYquem
Wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE.
Tagged with: 2020 Bordeaux | Blind Tasting | En Primeur | Southwold
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