Porquerolles, Côtes de Provence Rosé, Domaine de l'Ile Porquerolles 2023

Quite a vivid pink in the glass, but winemaker Pierre Etcheberry tells us this is common with the wines here which will then fade into a delicate pinkish salmon hue within a month or two of bottling. The nose is very vibrant, pulling redcurrants, white strawberries, exotic stone fruit and layers of sappy, woody herbs. The palate is much the same, layering fairly intense, ripe pinkish-red fruits with notes of orchard fruit underneath and an underlying, persistent saovury quality. This is a serious wine, with depth and focus. Etcheberry now has back vintages on the list at local restaurants for those lucky enough to visit the island of Porquerolles - the wines do age well for a few years. Very long, lively and perfectly balanced to the finish, this is both ambitious and accomplished.

32% Grenache, 26% Syrah, 23% Cinsault, 13% Mourvèdre & 6% Tibourin; 12.5% alc.; Harvest dates: Rolle 20th & 23rd August, Syrah 19th & 22nd August, Grenache 20th, 25th & 29th August, Tibouren 18th August, Cinsault 21st, 23rd & 26th August, Mourvèdre 26th, 30th & 31st August
The colour is anything other than pink, with coral and pale amber tones that look serious and grown-up. The perfume is multi-layered with equal measures of spice and tanginess, tart stone fruit and abundant red fruits. But this is not a wine with any trace of raspberries or strawberries. There is tension here with pomegranate, cranberry, sour red cherries, pomelo and rhubarb. This is a delicious wine with obvious flesh and allure, but it is extremely carefully delivered. It makes other houses look like they produce wines for carefree teenagers, while Domaine de l’Ile is designed for experienced adults only! Interestingly, Pierre and Jean-Basile brought a bottle of the 2020 vintage to show how beautifully these wines age. While this was only the second vintage of this wine, it is precision-cut, resplendent and incredibly satiating. The colour had barely budged, and the fruit was soothing and the finish keen. This is a wine to savour as much as it is one to treasure. Take my advice and track down these wines – you will not regret it! 18.5/20 (Drink now – 2026)