Chevalier Montrachet Demoiselles, Louis Jadot 2022

The 2022 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru Les Demoiselles (Domaine des Héritiers Jadot) is, as usual, one of the high points of the range, unfurling in the glass with aromas of pear, crisp stone fruit, white flowers, toasted bread, iodine and subtle reduction. Full-bodied, satiny and seamless, it's suave and charming, with a layered, vibrant core of fruit and a long, lively finish.

A fine mid lemon yellow. The bouquet is extremely stylish, showing a Chevalier with depth of flavour. There is lots more to tease out. Really impressive concentration here, just a few toasty notes, an extra body that comes from this emplacement. Just the right mineral acidity behind. Drink from 2032-2040. Tasted: October 2023.

Brooding on the nose with hints of spice box, toasted hazelnuts and apricot, this needs time in the glass to unfurl and show off the precise, ripe fruit at the core. The palate is vertical and dense, with a depth of stone fruit, sweet spice and cream matched by phenolic grip and tension. The acids aren't necessarily high, but they have a steely tang that refreshes the riper elements of the fruit core. Steely but fanning out on the finish, this is an impressive wine that deserves a little time in bottle before approaching.