Bâtard Montrachet, Domaine Ramonet 2021

A discreet though hardly invisible application of oak is present on the notably ripe and vaguely exotic nose of white and yellow peach, acacia and carnation, and even more phenolic character. There is better size, weight and volume though, somewhat surprisingly, not necessarily better concentration, to the succulent and caressing flavors that tighten up noticeably on the compact, tightly wound and built-to-age finale. This is very good and if not one of the domaine's all-time great vintages for the Bâtard, it's certainly no less than excellent. (Drink starting 2031)