Graacher Domprobst Spatlese Fuder 10, Weingut Willi Schaefer 2011

"This is the classical Spatlese," says Willi Schaefer by way of introducing his 2011 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese A.P. #10. A hint of yeastiness largely gives way to seductive scents of rowan and honeysuckle, strikingly mineral suggestions of salinity, alkalinity and wet stone, lightly-poached, vanilla-tinged apple and pear, as well as slightly sweet, pecan and pistachio-like nut oil. The layering of flavors here reminds me of a luscious, buttery, tangy and subtly piquant apple and nut strudel (albeit without raisins - for those, see the A.P. #5) - but a nearly weightless one! The combination of richness with soaring levity and mouthwatering purity of fruit, not to mention interactive complexity promise to persist not only past the point where you can resist the next sip, but also for the next two or three decades.