Léoville Poyferré 2023

The 2023 Léoville-Poyferré was picked from September 14 until October 5 at 52.78hL/ha and aged in slightly less new oak than usual, simply because of the large volume. In fact, some of the lots commenced their malolactic fermentation in vat rather than barrel. This has an intense bouquet with black cherries and iodine, becoming more floral with aeration. The palate opens with a medium body and pliant tannins, fleshy and ripe, dovetailing into a dense and multi-tiered mid-palate. Typical Poyferré in style, blood orange and light graphite notes are embroidered into the ripe black fruit, and there is noticeable glycerol on the finish. It is perhaps the most opulent of the three Léovilles, and yet it arrives with a modest 13.1% alcohol. This is a contender for the best Saint-Julien in show.

Aromas of cassis, plums, pencil shavings and toasty new oak introduce the 2023 Léoville Poyferré, a medium to full-bodied, rich and chunky wine with a deep core of succulent fruit framed by sweet, generously extracted tannins. It's a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that saw some saignée and osmosis for additional concentration. As usual, it's the creamiest, most "modern"-styled of the three Léovilles. Harvest began on September 14 and concluded on October 5, with fermentations a little cooler than usual, perhaps an intimation of a stylistic evolution in progress.

Deep ruby-purple in colour, an alluring, dark and smoky nose shows elements of soy sauce, incense and blackberry. The palate is creamy and polished, with layers of sweet red and cooler black fruit. Quite chalky and dense for the vintage, there is impressive underlying power here. Ripe but well managed, this is plush with notes of star anise and bramble but always managed by refreshing acidity and tamed by pithy, persistent tannins. Long, exotic finish.

This is already very pretty and polished with plenty of currant and plum character. Medium- to full-bodied with creamy, round tannins and a juicy finish. Caressing. Very refined.

The 2023 Leoville Poyferre is deep garnet-purple in color. Notes of cedar chest and cracked black pepper open out to a core of juicy plums and fresh blackcurrants followed by hints of Provence herbs, lavender, and mossy tree bark. The medium-bodied palate delivers compelling tension with a firm, fine-grained texture and pure black berry flavors, finishing on a floral note. The blend is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot, with pH 3.68 and TPI 76.

Brilliant Poyferré, deep ruby colour, setting the scene for ink, campfire, espresso, mint, cassis and damson. Concentrated but with a delicious balance, this feels effortless and is truly a wine for Bordeaux lovers to seek out. Harvest September 14 to October 5. 80% new oak, 52hl/h yields, biggest since 2004, with more 1st wine than usual because the old Cabernet Sauvignon plots gave quality and quantity (after three low quantity years). Alix Combes new vineyard manager, replacing long time manager Bruno Clenet.

The 2023 Léoville-Poyferré is positively stellar. Medium in body, vibrant and beautifully persistent, the 2023 is all class. It also signals a shift away from the richer (but equally successful) style favored here in the recent past, now moving toward an approach that favors more vibrancy. Dark red-toned fruit, blood orange, spice, mocha and cedar infuse the 2023 with notable freshness and verve. The new Léoville-Poyferré is quite the stunner. Tasted two times. 2028-2063

62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 52.8 hl/ha. Cask sample.
Ripe, full and pure. Generous fruit but not overplayed. Fine but plentiful tannins. Length and freshness. Harmonious but less power than some years. (JL) 13.1%
Drink 2033 – 2048