Mouton Rothschild 2022

A brilliant wine that likely sits somewhere between the 2019 and 2020 in quality, the 2022 Mouton Rothschild is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot. Unwinding in the glass with complex aromas of minty cassis, cigar wrapper, violets and subtle hints of loamy soil, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a layered core of fruit and a fleshy, elegantly muscular profile. Broad-shouldered and seamless, it concludes with a long, resonant finish. This year the grand vin represents some 49% of the estate's production.

The 2022 Mouton Rothschild was picked 1 to 26 September with one of the highest Cabernet Sauvignon contents in years, matured in 100% new oak as usual. Very deep, almost opaque in color. It is stubborn on the nose, at first, backward, then opens after 10 minutes with black plum, cassis and violet aromas. It is more voluptuous than the 2022 Lafite-Rothschild which is what you expect. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy and quite strict tannins (the IPT is 76), that frame layers of black fruit laced with tobacco and graphite. Powerful, almost burly, it is perhaps how the 1986 tasted in its youth. A Mouton-Rothschild determined to make a statement and it certainly does that. Feels a bit like tasting Thor's hammer at the moment, but it will just require considerable cellaring. 14.05% alcohol. 2032-2075

Saturated ruby in colour with an exotic, spicy nose that has plenty of oomph from cassis fruit. The palate is powerful and broad-shouldered but driven, with an effortless energy despite the fleshy, dark fruit at the core. All spice, incense and fresh cigar tones are prominent but balanced with the fruit. The tannins build through the mid palate and leave a chalky, slightly chewy perception on the finish. The fruit tightens but the wine is very long, this is an excellent Mouton that will need time in bottle to unfurl and reveal its true potential.

The Mouton-specific creme de cassis is all there. Al dente, too. The grapes must have been picked at near perfection. Depth and complexity. Black berries, earth, violets and other flowers. Full-bodied yet very hemmed-in with tight tannins, which are precise and polished. You can taste the grape skins and dust of the soil. The length is rather endless. 92% cabernet sauvignon.

The 2022 Mouton Rothschild, 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot, is aging in 100% new oak. Deep garnet-purple in color, it is incredibly closed to start off, needing a lot of shaking to wake up subtle notes of blackcurrant jelly, ripe blackberries, and fresh mulberries, leading to hints of espresso, crushed rocks, iris bulb, and star anise. Compared with the nose, the mouth wows with explosive, intense flavors of cassis, black cherries, and licorice that fill the palate, framed by very firm, beautifully ripe tannins and a lively backbone, finishing very long with mineral and floral sparks. It is amazing how classical this Mouton this is, considering the extreme vintage. A legend in the making. pH 3.89, TPI 76.

Inky damson colour, with vibrant violet reflections, velvet texture, aromatics less exuberant than the Petit Mouton, but the concentration and depth on the palate is absolutely there, with cocoa powder, grilled coffee bean, olive paste, cassis, bitter black chocolate on the finish as the tannins close in, ready for decades ahead. This walks the line, and is a thoroughly enjoyable experience. Clearly needs a long time before approaching, give it the full 10 years and then some. Harvest began September 1, earliest since 1893. 32hl/h yield. 3.89ph, 76IPT, 100% new oak. Harvest overall September 1 to 26. Jean-Emanuel Danjoy director. 49% of production in the Grand Vin, 27% Petit Mouton. 100% new barrels for ageing.

Moving to the flagship, the 2022 Château Mouton Rothschild is a massive, full-bodied, incredibly powerful 2022 that takes no prisoners with its ripe black and blue fruits, chocolate, graphite, and smoked tobacco-driven aromas and flavors. Deep, unctuous, and concentrated, with velvety tannins, this legendary Mouton is based on 92% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8% Merlot that's still resting in new barrel. It will unquestionably play with the top wines in the vintage. Harvest here began the 1st of September and finished on the 26th, and the final wine hit 14% natural alcohol, with a pH of 3.89 and an IPT of 76.

92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot. Cask sample.
Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated and it shows. Lovely cassis fragrance with a twist of spice. Palate truly amazing – suave, sensual but packed with polished tannin. Enough lift to provide freshness as well as light and shade. Powerful and clearly for the very long term. A modern 1986? (JL) 14%
Drink 2034– 2060

This wine is the last in the line-up when one tastes at Mouton. It is like a vinous pole-vault competition. Starting with Aile d’Argent (a limber up and stretch), then Pastourelle de Clerc Milon (no need for the pole). Next, Clerc Milon proper (perfecting technique), then on to d’Armailhac (testing the vault with more power and explosivity) and then comes Le Petit Mouton (a tie with the world record height). In years gone by, Le Petit Mouton would have sufficed, and you can read about this wine and the others in this report., But you can imagine that the adrenaline is pumping when I arrive at the Grand Vin, and the standards are sky high. I will leave this meandering metaphor now as the crowd claps in unison and I set off down the runway. This magnificent wine has so much more reserve, control and composure than I could have imagined. It is as if every element of its preparation has been perfected and delivered in perfect harmony. We know that the weather patterns were nothing short of terrifying in 2022 as the mercury rose
and the viti-teams had more to offer apart from faith in the vines. But this faith was not misguided, and the vines performed miracles. This is a less flamboyant wine than I was expecting. It seems to have no time for showiness or exhibitionist behaviour. Instead, it is as deep as the Mariana Trench in colour and serenity. There is no easy way to tackle this wine, and it requires effort to tease out strands of information from the untold complexity of this palate conundrum. This wine could only be Mouton given its stance, intensity and flavour profile, and yet no Mouton has ever come close to the shape, style and delivery of its panoply of flavours. It is a wicked combination of darkness and freshness, and while it detonates cassis on the palate, this is not an exotic wine but a severely dramatic one with epic lift and energy on the finish, and it is clear that there is so much behind the scenes it boggles the mind. The texture on the finish is emery-board fine cold embers dust the taste buds with mouth-watering results. And while this is a well-behaved and mannerly wine, as you would expect, what we see on the surface now is most likely not what we
will see in the chapters of flavour that emerge over time. This incredible wine opened up bit by bit over the half an hour of my visit, and I venture it would still be doing so today. I cannot imagine how this wine could be improved, so I am thrilled to award Mouton Rothschild a perfect score.

One of my favourite 2022s, technically very brilliant but it’s the texture that wows, generous, fruity, sleek, supple, it gives stone and graphite touches putting the terroir in the glass and overall this just screams elegance and finesse and above all drinkability! Smooth and shiny, silky, sleek, delicious from the first sip. Mouthwatering acidity combined with tannins that have the perfect balance of flinty grip, fleshy fruit and cool minerality. Certainly not shouting, they haven't pushed too far at all, more restrained and refined while still delivering a gorgeous mouthful of wine. Classy and refreshing. Concentrated but clean, pure and vibrant. Wonderful, magical - giving the concentration of the hot vintage which is want you want, but this is moreish and so succulent. One you'll want to finish the glass and then have more immediately. 16.4% press - 4% above normal, usually at 12-13%. 49% grand vin. 3.89pH. 76 IPT. Aged 100% in new barrels.