Chassagne Montrachet Chaumées, Domaine Hubert Lamy 2020

Planted at 20,000 vines per hectare but not yet deemed mature enough to merit the "Haute Densité" moniker on the label, Lamy's 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées is his best to date from this site, bursting with aromas of pear, citrus zest, smoke and freshly baked bread. Medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, it's deep and concentrated, with racy acids, chalky structuring extract and a long, saline finish.

Olivier has doubled the vine density by interplanting, from 2012-2014, so this cuvée will one day become Haute Densité but currently he is limiting the new vines to just one bunch or so each. Pale lemon and lime, showing much more concentration and precision compared to the Macherelles. Really fine boned, a touch of lime, and very considerable density, leading thus to extraordinary length Drink from 2027-2035. Tasted: November 2022.