Montrachet, Domaine Leflaive 1998

Poured as the opening wine to my trip to Hong Kong, it was doubtful that any white wine I would encounter during my stay would surpass the 1998 Montrachet Grand Cru . It has a spine-tingling, powerful, almost bewildering bouquet that just envelops the senses and knocks you sideways with its untrammeled intensity: yellow flowers, cold limestone and a touch of grilled walnut. The palate is harmonious and powerful with honey-tinged citrus fruit, perfect acidity and a crescendo of flavors that fan out gloriously towards the finish. It is difficult pinning down specific flavors here - it is more a sensation than a wine. Drink now-2025+