Montrachet, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 2005

An opulent, ripe and moderately oaked in-your-face nose explodes from the glass, bringing incredibly complex and layered aromas that run from floral, citrus, spice and a full range of white and yellow fruit notes that complement to perfection the lush, rich and amazingly concentrated broad-scaled flavors that are underpinned by an intense minerality and a palate staining finish of simply unbelievable length. At this young stage, this is a massive Montrachet that is long on power and muscle and while it's not as elegant as say the 2000, 2002 or 2004 versions, I believe that the refinement one typically finds in this wine will come in time. In sum, for sheer vinous fireworks, this is hard to beat and to call it a "wow" wine would be a considerable understatement. However, note that plenty of time will be required and it will be one of the longest-lived vintages in recent memory. A great, great effort.

Picked even later than the reds - perfectly healthy berries but, as always with Montrachet, with marvellous freshness. Deep gold already. Quite exceptionally concentrated, dense and savoury. Straight-backed, rigorous nose with lots of sap and minerals but richness too. "It always feels like a sin to drink this wine", says Aubert de Villaine, referring to just how easy and rewarding it is to do so. This is a substantial meal of a wine that insistently pulls the taster in to the spicy, creamy but not at all sweet fume that hovers over the tingling elixir.