Arbois Chardonnay Grand Curoulet, Domaine du Pélican 2020

Full bottle 1,298 g. They bought this parcel in 2012 from Jean-Marc Brignot. Prior to Brignot, it was owned by Robert Aviet, a well-known name in Arbois. Grand Curoulet is considered one of the very best terroirs of Arbois. It is a north-facing parcel located on the side of a hill that dominates Arbois and the Saône plain. Grand Curoulet is known to be where the first vines of Arbois were planted. The nearly 5 ha of recently replanted Chardonnay vines are located at the top of the parcel. Grey marl soils. The grapes are lightly crushed before being pressed. Fermentation and ageing in foudre (65%) and 500-litre barrels (35%, of which 15% new oak). Bottled February 2022 (slightly longer barrel-ageing than in previous vintages).
A combination of oak-toast sweetness and a touch of struck-match smokiness but both are subtle accompaniments to the tart citrus/quince fruit. Marked note of salty minerality/stoniness as well. The acidity really seems high here, eye-watering rather than mouth-watering even if there is a hint of creaminess in the mouth to help balance that acidity. It seems to me almost a step too far towards austerity. But perhaps it was the vintage and not a deliberate choice. For acid lovers only. Hard to suggest a drinking window here as high acidity does not always guarantee longevity. (JH)