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Piesporter Schubertslay Trocken Alte Reben, Weingut Keller 2018

Tasting Notes

Lemon, grapefruit, nectarine and cassis are coolingly and stimulatingly laced with mint and oregano on a soaring nose and a polished, brightly juicy, remarkably delicate palate. Apropos of delicacy, at 9% alcohol, here is one of those 2018s that brilliantly demonstrates the advantages of letting more alcohol accumulate than is generally associated nowadays with Kabinett, thus holding sweetness in check while paying no price in terms of perceived levity. Brightness of citrus, piquancy of huckleberry, green herbal pungency and a prickle of nettle combine for electrical, tongue-tingling invigoration as well as consummate refreshment on a buoyantly wafting, superbly sustained finish. This wine caused quite a stir because after the Mosel VDP (a.k.a. Grosser Ring) rejected Keller’s proposal to have it offered at their September auction in Trier, his VDP colleagues from Rheinhessen and the Nahe allowed it to be auctioned at their annual event, where, at €550 per bottle, it achieved the highest hammer price.

David Schildknecht, vinous.com, September 2019

(Keller Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben Auction) AP: 40 19. The 2018er Schubertslay Kabinett Alte Reben, as it is referred to on the consumer label, was harvested at 83° Oechsle on 120 year-old un-grafted vines and was fermented down to the lower end for fruity-styled levels of residual sugar (38 g/l). After an initial phase of smoky and reductive elements, this wine opens up to offer a multi-layered and impressively captivating nose of fresh minty herbs, grapefruit, lime, orange blossom and spices. Some delicate white fruits are wrapped into pure, zesty and animating flavors on the palate. The wine leaves one with a thrilling sense of airy finesse in the off-dry tasting finish. Far from being big, this stunning Kabinett remains true to its Prädikat. It is easily one of the finest young Kabinett we have ever tasted. And the upside is huge, as the wine fleshes out and develops more multi-layered depth. 2028-2048

Jean Fisch & David Rayer, Mosel Fine Wines (48), October 2019

A myriad of fresh spices and minerals here — everything from cloves to slate, to gin and tonic, to sheer rock face to chalk cliff. So delicate and dainty on the medium-bodied palate with the slightest touch of sweetness that is more or less seamless. The acidity drive and cut-throat, piercing texture is awe-inspiring. The finish is like chewing sharp pierces of porcelain that have been wrapped in wool. Drink now or hold.

James Suckling, JamesSuckling.com, December 2019
Please note that these tasting notes/scores are not intended to be exhaustive and in some cases they may not be the most recently published figures. However, we always do our best to add latest scores and reviews when these come to our attention. We advise customers who wish to purchase wines based simply on critical reviews to carry out further research into the latest reports.