Romanée Conti, Domaine de la Romanée Conti 2019

The 2019 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is a wine that brought tears to my eyes. Unfurling in the glass with scents of rose petals, black tea, wild berries, exotic spices, violets, bergamot and licorice, it's full-bodied, sensual and enveloping, with a broad attack that segues into a weightless but pungently intense mid-palate defined by striking energy and precision. Seamless and elegant, with melting tannins and mouthwatering acids, it concludes with an expansive, intensely floral finish. It's a monument in the making.

This too is restrained to the point of being almost completely inexpressive and even extensive swirling barely reveals the most floral nose of all, along with discreetly perfumed, exotic and elegant aromas of Asian-style tea, sandalwood and ripe yet cool red and dark currant. The equally cool, pure and highly energetic large-scale flavors also possess a simply gorgeous mid-palate texture that contrasts somewhat with the compact, backward and taciturn finish that possess stunningly good complexity and incredible persistence. Other than the barest suggestion of warmth, the balance is perfect and like all of the greatest vintages of this storied and multi-faceted wine, the word that comes to mind is Zen as the sense of harmony is unmatched. As was the case from barrel last year, I could again taste this wine three days later and while I don't pretend to know if the 2019 RC will ultimately match the finest vintages over the past 100 years, based on the underlying material, it certainly has a very good chance of doing so. In sum, Burgundy doesn't get much, indeed if any, better than this. (Drink starting 2044)

A glorious glowing fresh purple. The bouquet has something of all that has gone before, from a wealth of crushed strawberries through to much nobler aspects of deep red fruit. I have to keep going back to the nose. Now more floral, more in red fruit without the black pepper of La Tâche. So compact with its completely compelling fruit, with a little infusion of white pepper and unbelievable length. The wine still does not really want to speak to us with all its voice, but the intensity on the palate is second to none. Alpine strawberry, the freshest of raspberries, still really tight and concentrated. The 2019 Romanée-Conti has a floral harmony all the way through to its sublime finish.

Picked at the same time as La Tâche on 17 September, Romanée-Conti is following a different arc of evolution. Tasted out of barrel, the wine was perfection itself. I remember being struck by the explosive nature of the aromas and their range from high-toned red fruit to darker black fruit and the shading delivered by notes of while herb, mineral, and earth. None of that has disappeared, but the ensemble is less expressively aromatic than it was from barrel. The wine seems to be going quiet, although on the palate the enormous extract, density and well-managed tannins are all still in evidence. It is certain it will be worth the wait. (Drink between 2025-2065)