Chablis Les Clos, Domaine François Raveneau 2017

Raveneau's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Clos is also immensely impressive, offering up aromas of citrus oil and preserved lemons, orange rind, yellow orchard fruit, almond paste and fresh pastry that are very subtly inflected by a light touch of oak spice. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with immense concentration, a broad-shouldered, textural profile and a long, powerful finish. In a blind tasting, this is the one wine in the portfolio that might almost pass for a grand cru from the Côte de Beaune; and in that sense, Chablis purists might be tempted to express a preference for the Valmur this year, but there is no denying that this is an extremely compelling Les Clos. Drink 2025-2045.