Hermitage Rouge, J-L Chave 1998

Another fantastic Hermitage from J-L Chave, this bottle enjoyed at The Harrow Inn. Given ample decanting, one can see the multi-faceted nature of this wine. A deep garnet core. A sensuous, beguiling bouquet just soars from the glass; dark cherries, game, thyme, rosemary, liquorices and a hint of white fennel. The palate is full-bodied with svelte, lush tannins but counterbalanced by a robust structure that suggests this is a long-term Hermitage. Wonderful balance, cashmere texture, almost Burgundian towards the finish. A delirious wine. Drink now-2030. Tasted March 2009.

A tannic, backward, large-scaled, dense ruby/purple-coloured wine with high tannin, sensational extract, and formidable power and length. It needs 5-10 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030.

The 1998 Hermitage is also gorgeous, yet has more concentration and depth. Described as a ""granite year"" by Jean-Louis, this puppy has searing, liquid rock-like qualities to go with ample dark fruit, gunpowder and flint. Structured, firm and backward, yet with a rock-star mid-palate and finish, give it another 3-5 years and drink bottles through 2028.