Bienvenue Bâtard Montrachet, Domaine Ramonet 2017

Aromas of pastry cream, fresh pears, Meyer lemon and white flowers introduce Ramonet's 2017 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru, a full-bodied, deep and textural wine that's concentrated but incisive, with good structural tension and a long, chalky finish. Representing something of a hypothetical blend of the domaine's 2015 and 2014 vintages in this climat, it's well worth seeking out.

A highly reticent nose only reluctantly reveals its ever-so-mildly reduced nose that isn't enough to completely suppress the underlying aromas of honeysuckle and various white orchard fruit, but it does blur the nuances. The sleek, delicious and wonderfully refined medium weight flavors possess a silky mouthfeel though it gradually tightens up and particularly so on the noticeably warm and compact finale that delivers excellent length. There is clearly outstanding potential, but this is overtly warm and it's enough to impair the sense of balance. There is much to admire but the balance isn't what it could be so I would suggest serving this cooler than you might otherwise.