Montrachet, Bouchard Père et Fils 2016

Again, firm reduction renders an assessment of the nose impossible. The borderline massive flavors possess even more size and weight and this mid-palate is dense to the point of being borderline chewy yet the hugely persistent finish is highly seductive. In a word, magnificent.

There is just half of the quantity of the 2016 Montrachet Grand Cru this year (although that said, that's probably a multiple of what fellow Montrachet growers inherited). The bouquet has that marine-like tincture like the La Cabotte—oyster shell and sea cave scents underlying the citrus fruit. The palate is well balanced with a fine line of acidity, sappy in the mouth, a brooding intensity toward the finish. You can just feel the presence of this Montrachet, the opening chapter of a great wine. This will take several years to reach its apogee but it will be worth the wait. Drink 2020-2050.