Hubacker Grosses Gewächs, Weingut Keller 2015

(Keller Dalsheimer Hubacker Riesling GG) AP: 43 16. This offers a lovely and delicately complex nose driven by grapefruit, melon, herbs, spices and elderflower. The wine is gorgeously elegant and beautifully integrated on the palate and leaves a superbly playful feel of silky and refined orchard fruits in the very long finish. This is a great wine in the making with plenty of upside potential if it harnesses the touch of power currently coming through in the after-taste. This is truly impressive. 2018-2030

The yellow limestone of the Hubacker can sometimes seem the odd man out in the Keller lineup of GGs, as perhaps there is not quite the same perception of early elegance found in the wines from this vineyard as in the other limestone-based grand crus in the winery’s impressive lineup of great Hügelland terroirs. However, the inherent elegance of the 2015 vintage has closed the early gap here and this is an amazingly beautiful vintage for this bottling, with the bouquet offering up an almost exotic constellation of tangerine, papaya, complex minerality, wild yeasts, a very discreet touch of petrol, citrus blossoms, gentle smokiness and a touch of grapefruit zest in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and shows a nice touch of early generosity on the attack. The core is deep and pure, the acids ripe and racy and the backend just soars with great mineral drive and inner tension from the great woven tapestry of ripe fruit, great minerality and racy acidity. Another brilliant wine.