Léoville Poyferré 2012

A dark, fleshy wine, the Léoville Poyferré 2012 is round, succulent and deeply expressive. Dark red cherry, plum, mocha, graphite and lavender are fused together in an effortless, silky Saint-Julien built on texture. Striking and totally beautiful, the 2012 will be ready to deliver its charms early. All the elements are in the right place. This is a gorgeous showing from Léoville-Poyferré. The 2012 is perhaps not an epic wine, but is gorgeous today and should provide considerable pleasure over the next 15-20 years. The blend is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot.

Owned by the Cuvelier family since 1920, this property over the last 20 years has made some great wines in the Médoc. The 2012, a blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc, is opaque purple, thick-looking, and from bottle much more impressive than it was from barrel. This very extracted, rich, full-bodied, masculine Léoville Poyferré needs a good 5-8 years of bottle age and should evolve well for at least 20-25 years. Loads of blackberry and cassis, crushed rock and graphite notes are present in this medium to full-bodied, impressively concentrated and pure wine. Forget it for a while, as this is one of the bigger, richer Médocs. Drink: 2020 - 2045.

Tasted twice with consistent notes, the Grand Vin is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot (there is no Cabernet Franc unlike in 2011.) It was picked between 8th October and 19th October at 36hl/ha, when there was a torrential downpour and two plots were spoiled. The grapes were sorted on an Italian optical sorting machine. There is certainly impressive purity and intensity on the nose with ripe blackberry dark plum and touches of vanilla, a little more exotic than the 2011 this time last year. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe sweet tannins. It is typically relatively modern in style, quite opulent for a 2012 with a rounded, velvety finish with plush new oak (85%). Very fine. Tasted April 2013.

On the nose and palate this red suggests red and black plums with cedar notes and hints of cloves. Full body, firm tannins, fresh acidity and an intense finish. Minerally, too. Polished tannins. Drink in 2020.

Poyferré keeps its generous spirit at 10 years old and has a lovely rich body with raspberry coulis, blackberry and density through the mid palate. The oak majors on grilled cedar and almond, a little dominant and closes things down on the close of play, not quite smoothed out yet suggesting that although you can begin drinking now, it will benefit from another few years in bottle. Harvest October 8 to 19. 80% new oak.

Dark purple. Some real energy hidden in this, not desperately expressive wine. Voluptuous on the palate. Gosh what a lot of effort has gone into this. Full marks for effort… Lots of lusciousness and then it's drawn to a dry close like someone tightening a purse string. Though I'd guess not too much purse-string tightening while making this… Appealing freshness.

Like its neighbour Léoville Barton, Poyferré is always very good value for money when first offered en primeur (compared with Lascases anyway!). The consistently high quality and modest price mean that Poyferre is always a wine to consider purchasing en primeur as mature vintages tend to be much more expensive. Consultant oenologue Michel Rolland produces wines with a smoother, more fleshy character than the seriously structured wines of its neighbours. The result is a delicious St Julien that can usually charm early in its life and can stand the test of time. The blend here this year is 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 6% Petit Verdot. Dark colour with sweet black fruit on the nose. Multi-layered on the palate with black cherry ripeness, warmth, good density and a polished sheen. A very good Leoville Poyferre that reminds us of the great 2001.

There is a lot happening on the nose the richness of cassis underpinned by fresh bilberry. The fruit on the mid palate is ripe enriching with rounded tannins helping the fleshiness. The back palate has depth of fruit brooding black fruits and liquorice layers of flavour. 2020-30