Léoville Poyferré 1990

Absolutely spectacular, the 1990 Leoville Poyferre is much more evolved than either of its two Leoville neighbors. Its opaque plum/garnet color is accompanied by a gorgeous bouquet of smoke, charcoal, creme de cassis, and flowers. Fleshy and opulent, it comes across like a St.-Julien with a Pomerol texture and allure. This beauty has reached full maturity where it should remain for another two decades.

An absolute must purchase, and probably still a reasonable bargain, is Leoville-Poyferre's 1990. I rated this wine highly in pre-cask tastings, and followed that with an enthusiastic review in Issue #85 (2-28-93) (rating it 92). Since then I have had the wine three times, each time providing persuasive evidence that this is indeed a great Leoville-Poyferre. The two best Poyferres of recent decades have been the 1982 and 1983, but I am beginning to think the 1990 is superior. The wine exhibits a profoundly deep, opaque ruby/purple color, a fabulous nose of jammy, sweet, cassis fruit intertwined with scents of minerals and toasty oak. Still youthful and full-bodied, with low acidity, high tannin, and fabulous extract and purity, this is an awesomely-endowed Leoville-Poyferre that is just beginning to evolve. It requires another decade of cellaring, and it should last 30+ years. Admittedly, I gave it top marks early on, but it is even a greater wine than I had envisioned. To the extent that stocks still exist (I saw prices in the $350-$425 a case range in December, 1996), this is a must purchase.