Volnay Clos des Chenes, Domaine Michel Lafarge 1996

Still a fresh red colour with the lightest of orange touches. This has a very fresh nose, crystalline, becoming a little more perfumed in the glass, but is not yet ready to break through. I love the sweetness of fruit on the palate, which harmonises well with the final structure, and I think will develop more depth later in life. It remained discreet all through the lunch which followed the tasting, but it is just a question of waiting. 10 more years?

This is still quite deeply colored and even after 10 years of age, shows no softening around the edges. The nose is very richly fruited with still very fresh and primary aromas that are earthy and quite ripe, combining with unusually concentrated flavors (in the context of the vintage) and all wrapped in a dusty, intense and gorgeously detailed finish that delivers admirable length. This is a delicious yet altogether serious effort that packs ample power and punch and it will age effortlessly for another two decades, perhaps longer.