Pétrus 2022

The 2022 Pétrus has turned out brilliantly, bursting with aromas of mulberries, cherries, raspberries and violets, followed by a full-bodied, rich and fleshy palate that's ample and enveloping, its succulent core of fruit entirely concealing its sweet structuring tannins. Concluding with a long, resonant finish, its purity of fruit and structural suavity are deceptively effortless, but in reality result from incredible attention to detail in a vintage like this. Olivier Berrouet felt that maturity hadn't yet been attained by late August, picking a little later, with the core of the vineyard harvested on September sixth and seventh. Low yields and elevated concentration led him to reduce pumping over but prolong vatting, letting the wine take its time to come together. While I don't think it will quite rival the brilliant 2020 (time will tell!), it is a superb achievement and remarkably harmonious for such an extreme vintage.

The 2022 Petrus is initially quite standoffish (as usual), and so I wait 10 minutes, gossiping (as usual) with winemaker Olivier Berrouet, during which the Pomerol gradually reveals very pure blackcurrants tinged with blue fruit, hints of freshly shucked oyster shell and black truffle shavings. Clean and precise, the aromatics effortlessly shrug off the warmth and dryness of the summer. The palate is very detailed, extremely pure, with blackberry and wild strawberry fruit, cracked black pepper and hints of spice. It gently builds in the mouth with a vibrant and peppery finish that leaves the mouth tingling, long after the wines has bid adieu. Berrouet has captured so much freshness and energy in this Petrus, no doubt thanks to its blue clay soils. I envisage it evolving and astounding over the next half-century. (Drink between 2032-2075)

The 2022 Château Petrus showed brilliantly and is clearly in the top handful of wines in the vintage. The usual 100% Merlot and harvested between the 1st and 7th of September, it checks in as 13.5% alcohol with a pH of 3.63. Deep purple-hued, with a tight yet layered nose of darker cherries, cassis, spring flowers, violets, and perfectly integrated oak, it's full-bodied and has the vintage's pure, concentrated, powerful style, gorgeous tannins, and that classic, salty, mouthwatering finish of this château. It opens up beautifully with time in the glass, and given its purity and tannin quality, it's going to offer some up-front appeal yet have 50 years of longevity. I suspect it will take 10-12 years to hit the early stages of its prime drink window.

Aromatic and so perfumed but this really comes alive in the glass with coffee, chocolate, tobacco, blackcurrant and ripe cherry fruit - smells potent, opulent, rich and concentrated. Round, supple and agile in the mouth, a lovely intensity of dark bramble fruit accented by massy, chewy tannins that have a sharp edge to them - a vein of chalky, graphite minerality with high mouthwatering acidity. You get the power and intensity of a hot year, intensity and depth, layers of ripe fruit but with sweet, sharp and sour accents too, all giving such interest and nuance. A really appealing weight, extremely moreish and darkly charming with lift at the end. On the more generous side in all the areas with the acidity carrying the wine to a long finish. Really has the Pomerol typicality that you want - depth and richness - but giving brightness and sense of life that makes this a clear success. 3.63pH. 5-6% press wine. Harvest started on 1 September, the same date as 2003, and finished on 7 September. (Drink between 2030-2055)