Gevrey Chambertin Lavaux Saint Jacques, Domaine Berthaut 2022

The hail damage does not appear to have had any effect as there is a lovely purity to the blend of red currant, violet, lavender and sauvage-scented nose. In the same fashion, the super-sleek larger-bodied flavors possess a sophisticated mouthfeel and an almost palpable minerality while displaying superb length on the powerful, structured and built-to-age finale. Excellent. (Drink starting 2034)

A small plot and hailed, so just 1.5 barrels. Amélie would normally have used a large proportion of stems here but after the hail just 50%. Very light extraction. No sign of the damage, the wine stays elegant and fairly persistent. Perhaps not quite as long as some.

The 2022 Lavaux St-Jacques from Amélie Berthaut is bursting with ripe plummy fruit with hints of peonies, liquorice, and earth. The texture is fresh and lively, but there is more density than last year, and the combination of bright acidity and forward fruit carries the wine to a charmingly persistent finish. This parcel was damaged by hail in late June, and thus, only 50% of the grapes could be fermented as whole clusters. Although this plot was once worked on a sharecropping basis, the owner has sold it to the domaine, guaranteeing our pleasure for years to come.