Graacher Domprobst Kabinett, Weingut Willi Schaefer 2016

Like its 2015 predecessor, this 2016 displays a slight cheesy, yeasty fermentative veil, but from behind that emerge seductive perfumes of rowan and heliotrope along with scents of ripe quince, pear and grapefruit that set the tone for a luscious performance on the buoyant, silky palate. The tang and tingle of pear skin and grapefruit zest convey a sense of invigoration that contrasts with the more placid Himmelreich and its gliding finish. The sweet nuttiness typical for Domprobst – here in pistachio-like guise – conveys richness, and stony underpinnings provide a sense of Mosel-typical depth. (Bear in mind that I subtracted a point from my score for this wine’s youthful “Mosel stink,” but it has a fine future.) (Drink between 2017-2034)