Chevalier Montrachet, Bouchard Père et Fils 2020

The 2020 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru is an outstanding wine. Compared to Bruno Colin, it offers more mineralité and terroir expression on the nose. Very focused with palpable energy, this is wonderful. The palate is beautifully balanced with pure white stone fruit, a killer line of acidity and stunning sapidity on the finish. So much energy is coiled up in this wine, and this will ensure that it ages in bottle. Proper. Grand. Cru. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting. Drink: 2028-2060.

This chardonnay masterpiece is currently like a fully wound Breguet watch, but the extremely subtle nose of citrus, wild herbs and flowers is already breathtaking. Mind-blowing concentration, purity and precision on the generous but by no means massive palate. The really extraordinary thing is the intense crushed-stone minerality that's married to sensual creaminess on the mid-palate, then asserts itself ever more singularly at the finish, until it's completely overwhelming. From 2.33 hecatres of vineyards on all four terraces of this famous site. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.