Saint Aubin Châtenière, Domaine Hubert Lamy 2022

The 2022 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Clos de la Chatenière is showing brilliantly, offering up aromas of pear, orange oil, toasted hazelnuts and warm stones. Medium to full-bodied, dense and satiny, with a layered core of fruit, chalky structuring extract and a long, precise finish, I sometimes think that this cuvée—from old, virused vines in one of Saint-Aubin's most historic terroirs for Chardonnay—is one of the most underrated in Lamy's range.