Pape Clément 2010

I certainly underrated the 2010 Pape Clement from barrel, rating it only 93-95+. (Thank God I put a "plus" there!) Having tasted it four times in Bordeaux, and rating it perfect three times and 99 the fourth time, this final blend of 51% Merlot, 47.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1.5% Petit Verdot is perfection in a bottle. Tipping the scales at 14.5% natural alcohol, there are 8,000 cases of it. Its sublime elegance, the power, the medium to full-bodied texture, the silky tannins, the subtle notes of smoke, lead pencil shavings, black currants, charcoal, camphor, blueberry and cassis fruit are all remarkable. It is a rich, full-throttle wine, but the elegance and the great terroir of Pape Clement come through in abundance. It is slightly more developed and evolved than the 2005 was at a similar point in its evolution, but it certainly needs another 5-7 years to develop further nuances, which it surely will. This wine will last 30-40+ years.

Kudos to proprietor Bernard Magrez, who has built an empire based on high quality more than any other characteristic

The 2010 Pape Clément has a gorgeous bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit, camphor, raspberry preserve and just a hint of marmalade - very seductive and classy. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins and good density, as you would expect. Whilst a little grainy in texture it feels structured with tarry black fruit, although I would have liked to see a touch more persistence on the aftertaste. As such, leave it for another three or four years because it has a lot of potential. Drink:2024-2050

Intense blueberry nose with great precision and expression. Full and vibrant on the palate with a minty note. Vanilla. Wonderful structure. Firm but ripe tannins and very long. Needs time to soften. Great potential. Try in 2016.

Deep garnet in color, the 2010 Pape Clement comes wafting sensuously from the glass with fragrant notions of dried roses, Chinese five spice and sandalwood over a core of kirsch, warm cassis and plum preserves plus a touch of cedar chest. Medium to full-bodied, the palate is finely crafted with a firm line of ripe, grainy tannins and bold freshness supporting the perfumed fruit through the incredibly long finish. 2020-2055

Inky depths to the colour, barely budging at 11 years old. This is excellent, showing the incredible potential of this site. Everything is delivered slowly and carefully, plenty of tannic grip, very little evolution in the expression, the whole thing inching forward. A ton of liqourice and slate, with the smoke and grilled herb quality that you find so often in Pape Clement, alongside layer upon complex layer of graphite, pencil lead, cassis and marzipan. 100% new oak. Michel Rolland consultant. Harvest September 24 to October 20, slow and steady with a yield of 32hl/h.

Very dark with even a hint of brown. Direct and leathery on the nose. Then very sweet - almost right-bank sweetness - but then it returns to acidity and fine tannin. A dramatic even if not-that-comfortable wine. Almost too drying on the finish but it works in the end. Slightly tarry finish. Not the most succulent.

Owner Bernard Magrez has made serious investments here since the late 1990's and recent vintages have been outstanding thanks to extremely low yields, labour-intensive sorting of grapes and modern wine-making techniques. Prices are moving up at Pape Clément but so is the quality, which bears no relation at all to the weedy wines of the early 1980's and before. The 42 hectares were harvested at 32 hl/ha and this is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Merlot. The nose is wonderfully smoky and tarry with lots of sexy new oak. There is masses of black cherry fruit on the palate with creme de cassis and vanilla notes. Big, plush and plump, this Pape Clement is ripe and modern but it's classically Graves in style too. Opulent and complex. It certainly packs a punch.

The fruit on the nose is very concentrated with the fleshy sweetness slightly overpowered by the tannins. Black cherry and sloe enrich the middle but behind are tough slightly aggressive tannins that give a bitter dusty dry feel on the finish. It seems to be lacking a bit of balance and harmony.

Superb concentration of ripe Cabernet fruit, slightly smoky, potentially very complex, wonderful presence and richness on the palate, ripeness and tannins in complete harmony, very good indeed and a great future. Drink 2015-30.