Tokaji Essencia, Royal Tokaji Wine Company 2016

The 2016 Essencia is a refulgent deep gold color. There’s no dabbling on the nose as it bursts with scents of Clementine, Japanese yuzu, quince and marmalade, all the tropes one expects from a Tokaji. Yet this being Essencia, those flavors are amplified without any loss in delineation. The palate is as unctuous as you expect, lacquering the inside of the mouth (and this is why a spoon is included, not for show, but the most efficient means for transferring the wine straight onto the tongue.) The tastebuds tingle with glee, reveling in untrammeled sweetness, effortlessly offset by that razor-sharp acidity that renders it not cloying in the slightest. Purer than an angelic choirboy, the 2016 is armed with immense tension on the citric finish that offers Seville orange marmalade, strawberry, mandarin and quince. Outrageous and yet sophisticated and probably indestructible.

Amber colour. A nose that fills the room with dried apricots, manuka honey and ginger cake. The palate grabs your attention immediately; it is full bodied with an unmatched concentration and sweetness. Despite the power and sheer weight of sugar in this wine, it is finely balanced thanks to mouthwatering acidity. Quince paste, syrupy sweet fruit, saffron and crystalised ginger come in waves. A truly unique style, hugely sweet yet steely and tangy on the finish. Stunningly long. This will drink well for many decades.