Bollinger La Cote aux Enfants Blanc de Noirs 2012

The 2012 Blanc de Noirs La Côte aux Enfants is a new Champagne from Bollinger made from a southwest-facing, 2-hectare parcel in Aÿ that was redeveloped 25 years ago adjacent to the block that has informed the house’s Coteaux Champenois since 1934. Even in 2012 – a radiant year – the Côte aux Enfants is intensely bright and tightly wound, a reflection of very thin soils with just 30 centimeters of topsoil above pure chalk. That reticence is probably a very good sign for its long-term aging prospects. Time brings out hints of apricot, peach, red plum, kirsch, wild flowers, chalk, spice and white pepper, but the 2012 only starts to blossom with a ton of air. The 2012 was disgorged in March 2022. Dosage is 8 grams per liter, on the higher side these days, but not at all noticeable. Stylistically, the Côte aux Enfants is not as exotic as the VVF, nor as steely as the new series of multi-vintage PN Blanc de Noirs Bollinger began releasing with the 2015 vintage. I can’t wait to see how it ages, but I also wouldn’t dream of touching a bottle any time soon, except for academic purposes. Drink 2027-2042.