Chardonnay, Kutch 2023

Full bottle 1,341 g but, although he doesn't use the lightest bottles, Jamie Kutch is very good at giving masses of detail succinctly on back labels. From a vineyard planted in 1972 at 1,400 ft 3.05 miles from the Pacific on Goldridge sandy loam. Having read the back label, I initially thought the fruit was picked on 10 July – but, having worked out the US not UK system of putting the month first (illogical surely?), I realise now it was picked on 7 October! 100% whole-bunch pressed, spontaneous fermentation and malo in French oak barrels (20% new). Minimal sulphites. Eleven barrels made.
Reticent nose with lots of delivery that opened out in the glass. Lightly spicy nose and well-integrated green-fruit flavours on the palate with just a hint of naturalness. Long. More obviously zesty and refreshing than the Leeuwin Art Series 2020 tasted immediately beforehand. Lovely racy acidity but not remotely austere. (JR)

This year's Sonoma Chardonnay from Kutch is an open-knit and easy-drinking wine that stays true to Jamie's desire for vibrancy and modest alcohol. There's a rotational 20% new oak on the wine, but it is integrating nicely already, accenting the nose with spice while it is led by juicy, slick citrus and stone fruit. On the palate the fruit has a saline edge, giving a mouthwatering zip to the acidity that keeps you coming back for more. Gently flinty but built on that salty fruit, there are notes of white pear and yuzu on a fine, lithe finish. Drink now or over the coming 5-8 years.