Calon Ségur 1995

The 1995 Calon-Segur was the vintage that raised the profile of this estate and heralded the start of the late Mme Gasqueton's era. At 20 years of age, it shows no signs of reaching the end of its plateau. Far from it. It has an endearing bouquet that still seems youthful: brambly red fruit, asphalt and a light marine influence. Allowing the wine to open, there is a subtle winegum scent. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, impressive depth and backbone, the second half having mellowed in recent years, rendering this approachable; hints of secondary truffle and smoke notes emerging with aeration. It has been several years since I last tasted this wine, but it is one that seems to become more and more impressive with age. Robert Parker rightly lauded this Calon-Ségur at the time of release. Twenty years on, it is fulfilling all its promise. Drink 2015-2045.

As I have said many times since I first tasted this wine, the 1995 Calon-Segur is one of the great sleepers of the vintage (I bought the wine as a future for a mere $250 a case). The wine has closed down completely since bottling, but it is a sensational effort that may ultimately merit an even higher score. The wine is opaque purple-colored. With coaxing, the tight aromatics reveal some weedy cassis intertwined with truffles, chocolate, and beef blood-like aromas. On the palate, there is an element of sur-maturite (1995 was an extremely late harvest at Calon-Segur), fabulous density and purity, and a boatload of tannin. This deep, broodingly backward, classic Bordeaux will require a decade of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2035.

Proprietor Madame Gasqueton (one of The Wine Advocate's heroines of 1997) has produced two unqualified back to back successes. Kudos to Calon-Segur, as both the 1995 and 1996 wines have a strong buy recommendation from me, but only for readers who have the patience to wait them out.

I always loved this wine from the first time I tasted it in 1998. It has such purity and power yet it's reserved and beautiful. It's one of the best Calons ever. I drank a bottle with some friends in Manhattan last week and it was the wine of the evening. It was full-bodied with silky tannins and a focused and intense finish. Lots of currant and berry character and hints of dried spices. It's finally opening up and giving real pleasure now like so many 1995 Bordeaux at the moment.

This has a very backward nose with an almost animal-like intensity. The Cabernet Sauvignon is dominant with cedar, smoke and sous-bois characteristics coming through. Superb definition with a little more ""attack"" than the 1996 (which is not dissimilar in style.) The palate is extremely backward, almost chunky and tannic, much more primal than the '96 with blackberry, briary, bilberry complemented by hawthorn and leather. Very well balanced towards the charming finish which is developing an enthralling sense of harmony and effortless. A wine that put Mdm. Gasqueton on the map and still with so much to give in future years. Drink 2015-2040. Tasted November 2008.