Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese Goldkap Fuder 18, Weingut Joh. Jos. Prüm 2009

The Prums' (non auction) 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese gold capsule A.P. #18 - like the corresponding Graacher Himmelreich - can be described as "confectionary," but there most similarity ends. In this instance, the sheer sense of sweetness is much less overriding, and the prominent aromas and flavors are of malt, caramel, vanilla cream, hazelnut paste, and chestnut puree. The textural creaminess of this Auslese is sheer seduction and its sense of depth and layering - of mysterious darkness even - no less enticing. Yet at the same time, it (and indeed in 2009, it seems, wine from this site generally) retains a fresh fruit edge over its Himmelreich counterpart (whereas the converse was true in 2008) along with a mouth-watering sense of salinity. And so, we have a finish not just astonishingly persistent, but possessed of striking delicacy, enervation, and irresistible juiciness. I suspect this will merit following from 30-40 years.