Gruaud Larose 2001

Surprisingly accessible as well as supple, this 2001 St-Julien reveals a deep plum/purple colour along with a rich bouquet of smoke, roasted vegetables, black cuurants, plums, licorce and Asian spices. Velvety-textured and medium-bodied, with loads of fruit and a plump expansive, plush texture, this is an atypically forward Gruaud Larose to drink now and over the next 12-14 years

There is a subtlety to this that strikes you immediately - gentle smoke, cold ash, tobacco, white truffle, brambled blackberry fruits, mint leaf, totally sublime, my favourite of the line up so far. It plays to the strengths of St Julien, and plays with nuanced light-and-shade in a way that the 2000 does not at this point. This is a high score for Gruaud Larose, and reflects the heights that this vintage is reaching right now - tracking how long it stays at this level is part of the beauty of wine. I tasted two versions, one decanted and one not - the smokey side is more evident in the carafe, but I preferred allowing it to open more slowly in the glass. Harvest September 21 to October 4, 35% new oak.

Glowing crimson. Toasty oak. Quite attention-grabbing and slightly modern – tannins (of which there is a heavy charge) very well hidden. Good acidity.