Maximin Grünhäuser Abtsberg Auslese 72, Maximin Grünhaus - Weingut der Familie von Schubert 2010

Glazed pineapple, white peach nectar, and candied lime rind scent and pungently flavor a 2010 Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Auslese Fuder #72 that musters more than enough primary citrus juiciness to remain refreshing and whose nips of radish and savory lick of salt serve for mouthwatering invigoration. At the same time, sheer polish and subtle oiliness make for a soothing side to this multifaceted beauty. In contrast with the corresponding Auslese #42, here there is a dynamic sense of interaction among spices, nut oils, and citrus. This came from young vines and fruit only lightly touched by botrytis, its concentration, as von Schubert explains, being more the sort of tiny-berried, spontaneously desiccated fruit traditionally associated with the term -Goldbeerenauslese- and with exceptional levity, purity, and dynamic. I would anticipate more than 30 years of delight. (For more about this fruit, see my note on #72's -twin,- #24.)