Interdit de Guffens, Guffens au Sud 2022

Jean-Marie Guffens produces this Burgundian-style Chardonnay from vines grown at an elevation of 400 metres on a limestone soil near the village of Apt in North-West Provence. Grapes were all picked by hand. Elevage is all in barrel - with 25% new oak. Chardonnay is not a permitted variety for the local Luberon Appellation, but Jean-Marie couldn't care less about that, so it is labelled as "Vin de France". The 2022 has really gained in character and complexity in the last six months. Though not quite with the same intensity of matchstick reduction as the 2016, there is certainly a top note of enticing, flinty smokiness. The fruit is succulent and ripe, the nose and palate showcasing pure orchard fruits, candied citrus and a hint of fresh white flowers. Texturally full and fleshy, the acidity is balancing without adding too much cut. There is a lick of sweet spice, emphasising the silky, sumptuous nature of the wine. Enjoy now, or over the next three plus years.