Riesling Centgrafenberg Großes Gewächs, Weingut Rudolf Fürst 2021

Enormously effusive aromas of spring meadow, spring blossom and white currant leap out of the glass at you. So sleek it’s only at the lower end of medium-bodied, but it’s also so vibrant and hyper-precise. I love the crystalline purity at the long diamond-bright finish. Drink or hold.

The first note out the glass is the faint lazy drift of a curl of smoke, just enough out of reach to be nostalgic. Then hawthorn blossom, on a cold March morning, the light still milky hazy with the dregs of winter. Tight, tense as white knuckles. The fruit is so pure it is almost transparent, succulent and yet precise. It holds itself with spectacular steely power but the finish is a whisper you have to lean in close to hear. Mesmerising. 2022-2032. 12%