Pinot Gris Rangen Clos St Urbain, Domaine Zind-Humbrecht 2009

The unapologetically sweet, 14.3% alcohol Zind-Humbrecht 2009 Pinot Gris Rangen Clos Saint Urbain has the site-typical pungency of peat, carob, and charred wood, accompanied by scents and flavors of spiced, smoked meat pate, litchi, musk melon, and mirabelle. Bitter suggestions of fruit seeds add to the complex and fascinating counterpoint of a rich, expansive and lingering palate presence. This ought to be absorbing to follow over the next 12-15 years, though I confess I am not sure of the contexts in which I would serve it other than with a rich meat pate, with foie gras, or solely for self-indulgent meditation.

Really honeyed, luscious fruit with a tropical character, like lychee and mango juice. Unctuous and heavy but with a fine definition to seal the finish neatly.