Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Beerenauslese, Weingut Dönnhoff 2007

The over-ripe pear and quince featured in other nobly sweet wines of this collection are very much present in Donnhoff's 2007 Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Beerenauslese, along with aromas of distilled gentian, gardenia, lemon oil, freshly baked bread, and white truffle. The intensity of inner-mouth perfume here - orchard fruit, floral, and herbal distillates - is nearly beyond belief. Pear nectar, quince preserves, apple jelly, liquid gardenia, brown spices, and a certain saline and smoky suggestions of things mineral inform a finish of trance-inducing duration. This amazing elixir - harvested largely in the Turmchen section of the site - should be worthy of 40 years cellaring. When Donnhoff laughingly referred to this as the year of Felsenberg, he was not in fact kidding, nor was he referring just to the sheer number of bottlings!