Last year we tasted three of the most extraordinary wines that we had ever come across: three ports from 1860, 1870 and 1888 from the Van Zeller family. The wines were not only a piece of vinous history, they were so unique and beguiling in the glass that it is a struggle to describe them.
Whilst all three wines were nothing short of remarkable, we did have a unanimous favourite: the 1888. After some considerable negotiation we are delighted to make an offer of this quite extraordinary wine.
The Van Zeller family history is a long one, and their ties to Porto go back to the 1600s. The company Van Zellers & Co. was founded in 1780, and was responsible for the first trade routes from Portugal to Russia and the Baltics. They were once owners of both Quinta do Noval and Quinta do Roriz. They are “Douro Royalty” according to Port expert Ben Howkins, and have a particular speciality in seeking out the rare old casks that still exist.
These casks of very old port are not uncommon in the region though it is rare to find them in good condition; when they can be found, the challenge of persuading the owner to sell follows. Cristiano Van Zeller had been aware of three very old casks for some years, visiting the farmer whose family owned them, advising him on how best to keep them in pristine condition until finally taking custody of the wines in 2018.
The port pre-dates the foundation of the Port Wine Institute; as it is not officially a Colheita, nor is the vintage marked on the label. The Van Zellers chose to name the 1888 “Poetry” to commemorate the birth of one of Portugal’s greatest poets, Fernando Pessoa.
The wine itself is almost impossible to describe. No superlative fits the bill. It is just something else, something entirely different and it is no exaggeration to describe it as out of this world. Very few have been lucky enough to taste it, though Julia Harding MW, writing for jancisrobinson.com, scores “Poetry” a perfect 100, describing all three wines as “outstanding, different from each other in ways that I found hard to describe: elixirs of long stewardship, liquid history.” Our own Thomas Parker MW, a man who rarely throws big scores around, rates the 1888 a perfect 100.
The wine is bottled in a unique hand-blown bottle, presented in its own wooden presentation case, with a hand-blown crystal decanter produced by Vista Alegre - Atlantis. Each bottle is filled to order and the wines will ship to the UK after the Summer. Each case is numbered out of 100 available worldwide.
 | Region | Vintage | Wine | Qty | Size | Units | Price | Per | Score | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 | Port | 1888 | XIX Crafted by Poetry, Van Zellers & Co. In presentation crystal decanter | 3 | 1×75cl | 10 | 3,500.00 | 1 | XIX Crafted by Poetry, Van Zellers & Co. | ||
| Wines are offered subject to remaining unsold. E&OE. | |||||||||||
Greeny brown with some ochre at the rim. Striking note of bitter orange at first, then opening to a complex range of aromas and flavours such as mocha, bitter molasses, dried orange peel, raisins, figs and even shoe polish. But floral, too. So incredibly concentrated that it is almost, but not quite, over the top. The very long and mouth-watering finish with a touch of saltiness, keeps all that intensity in bounds.
Mahogany with a green-yellow tinge at the rim. The nose is profound, deep and concentrated, unfurling with such a unique array of aromas that make it difficult to describe. A sense of mahogany wood, dried figs, plump sultanas, candie citrus rind and layer upon layer of spice come through. The palate has an effortless power that can only come through age. Supple but not overly sweet, the leathery notes of age from the nose follow on the palate, with a hint of coffee and old books also coming through. Dried tamarind and brown sugar form a balance for the savoury, spiced notes of age. The finish is minutes long, framed by impressive acidity that keeps the wine in perfect balance. A unique expression, this has to be tasted to be fully understood.
