Difficult in much of Europe, 2021 has proven to be an outstanding vintage for Barbaresco, up there with the brilliant 2016s. In his late 2023 report on the wines, Antonio Galloni writes: “The wines I have tasted so far suggest an outstanding to potentially profound vintage in the making. The 2021s are marvellously complete wines that offer a captivating mix of energy, structure, depth and plenty of site character.”

Which brings us to the out and out bargain that is Cantina Rizzi, whose wines we have been importing for five years now. Named after the Rizzi vineyard, the property is found just outside of Treiso. The style is for beautifully ripe, plush wines that age impeccably well though are so fragrant and forward that they are hard to resist in their youth. We have bought all the wine that we have been offered by the winery ever since we first tasted their 2016s.

Two wines in particular stood out to us of the 2021 samples we received last week: the “straight” Barbaresco Cru Rizzi and the Barbaresco Pajore.  At £240 per dozen and £300 per dozen respectively, both represent possibly the best value for money you can find in Piedmont. Moreover, outright quality aside, you will find few wines – anywhere – that offer so much sheer drinkability.

Barbaresco “Cru Rizzi” comes from the Treiso vineyard after which the Cantina is made. It enjoys substantial variations in aspect and altitude and two distinct soil types, which lend the wine its almost unique aromatic profile. “Sweetly perfumed red fruit that jumps out of the glass. Elegant palate with a core of juicy red fruit framed by finely chiselled yet gripping tannins.” writes Walter Speller, scoring it 17+. The Rizzi style is such that you can just about enjoy this now, though five years of patience will be well-rewarded. This is a very hard wine to beat at £240 per dozen.

A slightly more long term proposition is the Barbaresco Pajore, scored 18 points by Walter Speller “Slumbering, mineral-driven nose with touches of spice. Gorgeous, elegant palate weight.” and 95 by Kerin O’Keefe “Fragrant and refined, the 2021 Rizzi Pajorè has lovely aromas of violet, baking spice, camphor and forest berry.” This comes from a 3 hectare plot of what is one of the most famous vineyards of Barbaresco, and shows an extra layer of depth over the Cru Rizzi. The class on offer here for the money is considerable.

Both wines are currently at the winery and will ship late this year.