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2021 Kumeu River

Farr Vintners have championed the brilliant Chardonnays made at Kumeu River since we started importing the wines in 1989. These wines from New Zealand regularly beat Premier and even Grand Cru  white Burgundies that sell at many times the price in professional blind tastings. Jancis Robinson MW, Neal Martin, Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, James Suckling and many other critics have given huge scores to the wines over the years.

2021 represents the third great vintage in a row for Kumeu. We have never tasted three stronger vintages in succession, and Michael Brajkovich - the winemaker - agrees, saying "I've never seen a run of vintages of this quality before." This is Michael's 40th vintage at Kumeu River. He is a modest man, not prone to hyperbole, which makes his assertion all the more encouraging. 

This quality has come at a cost in 2021 - volumes are down 30-40% this year and as such the wines are only available in 75cl bottles. Late spring frosts drastically reduced the potential yield in September, particularly in Auckland. The growing season was cool, preserving freshness with the highest recorded temperature 29.2C in mid-December. This preserves aromatic complexity through slow maturation, which is clearly evident in the glass this year. 

UK Sales Only

The 2021 Chardonnay Rays Road is bright, refreshing and almost salty. I'm even tempted to say mineral; it's certainly not a fruity Chardonnay. The finish is lightly savory with fresh white pear and floral notes. There's a sense of pithiness and citrus line followed up with an almost chalky texture.

90
Rebecca Gibb MW, vinous.com, September 2022

This single vineyard Chardonnay is made from the best vines in Kumeu River's new vineyards in Hawke's Bay on limestone soils. Grown at an altitude of 200 metres, conditions here are cooler than in most parts of the region. Michael Brajkovich comments that "the wines are particularly exciting and edgy, coming from low-yielding rootstocks and clones that have given some excellent aromas and minerality." Just a few new barrels here keep the oak taste to a minimum and - as ever- this reminds us of Chablis albeit with a bit more opulence. Undoubtedly the best wine from this site so far as the Brajkovich family learn more about the vines each year. Pale lemon colour with a cool nose of wet stone and green fruit. Apples and limes come with a light creaminess and just a hint of spice box from cleverly judged wood. Chalky and impressively savoury on the palate, this is delicate, refined Chardonnay with pithy textural intrigue. Flinty, with a strong yuzu note through to the finish, this site is now really starting to deliver.

93+
Thomas Parker MW, Farr Vintners, September 2022

The 2021 Chardonnay Hunting Hill is its usually sinewy, taut and lightly floral self. Often in the shadow of Maté's Vineyard, Hunting Hill seems to be becoming more and more serious as the vines age - they're around 20 years old. Expect a muscular, unyielding wine that has lemon and lime bitter notes, nectarine and even a whiff of seaside - all salty and briny.

95
Rebecca Gibb MW, vinous.com, September 2022

Flowering took place well ahead of normal. Yields were about 35% down overall in 2021 but less so at the Hunting Hill vineyard where there was no frost. The maximum temperature all summer was 29.2 degrees on the 9th of December which meant that 2021 was a long, cool, dry and sunny vintage which allowed for slow grape maturation, and the development of excellent fruit aromas and flavours. Harvest was completed on March 9th - about 3 weeks ahead of usual. Maturation was all in oak barrels with 25% new oak from Francois Freres. Very pale lemon colour. The nose here is full of lime, piercing in its focus and layered with flinty reduction. There is a touch of savoury wood smoke, harmonious with the intense fruit. The palate is very tightly coiled, as this site often is in youth. Limes and laser like acidity bring precision and focus. Steely, with a struck match richness through the mid palate, this is very youthful and needs time. The drive and intensity are unmatched, this powerful and wonderfully delineated wine should be a great Hunting Hill. Very long on the finish. Give it at least two years before approaching.

97
Thomas Parker MW, Farr Vintners, September 2022

The 2021 Chardonnay Maté's Vineyard offers greater tension and sapidity compared with how the more relaxed 2020 did upon release. It will need time in bottle to shake off the rawness of youth. It is focused, concentrated and precise. There's sophisticated use of oak, which integrates seamlessly within the package. I got a cold the day after this was first opened, and almost a week later, when my senses returned, it remained impeccable, focused and compact.

97
Rebecca Gibb MW, vinous.com, September 2022

Flowering took place well ahead of normal. The maximum temperature all summer was 29.2 degrees on the 9th of December which meant that 2021 was a long, cool, dry and sunny vintage which allowed for slow grape maturation, and the development of excellent fruit aromas and flavours. Harvest was completed on March 9th - about 3 weeks ahead of usual. Mate's Vineyard was planted in 1990 so these vines are now over 30 years old and low-yielding . Maturation was all in oak barrels with 30% new oak from mainly Seguin Moreau. Pale lemon colour. Fleshy stone fruits are immediate and enticing on the nose here. Peaches and cream meet brighter yuzu fruit, savoury wood smoke and a hint of reduction on this already complex nose. The palate follows, with glossy, ripe stone fruit lifted by waves of citrus. The creamy, generous depth is perfectly matched by fresh but balanced acidity. There is a tangible grip to this wine, adding further depth, textural intrigue and ageing potential. Succulent yet refined, the palate continues to flesh out and gain in intensity on the finish, revealing nutmeg, struck flint, white peach and passion flower, all the time remaining fresh and focused. Outstanding.

97+
Thomas Parker MW, Farr Vintners, September 2022
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