Last week I had the chance to attend tastings on both the 2020 vintage (held by the Institute of Masters of Wine) and the 2022 vintage (with the Union des Grands Crus) on the same day. While tasting over 100 samples of serious young Bordeaux is punishing on the palate, the opportunity to compare the wines in depth informed where and how these two highly rated vintages converge and differ.
Plenty has been written about the conditions of each growing season but in brief – both 2020 and 2022 were defined by heat and drought (much like 2018 and 2019). 2022 saw significant commentary on the adaptation of vineyards and people to create wines that defied or, perhaps more accurately, harnessed the severe weather to produce wines of balance and freshness while still showing the sun’s effect on the fruit. What could have been another year like 2003 is in fact a vintage that has quality in all appellations for those who know where to look, with some very high peaks. Picking the reds started as early as August for some producers, trying to save acidity and brightness in the wines at a time when they might still have been on holiday a decade ago.
2020 was not as extreme as 2022. Early season rains got things growing early, and some rains in mid-September split the field into those who picked before, those who gambled to pick after, and those who did a little of both. All policies could be successful subject to terroir, but it is a vintage that separates the best from the rest. From barrel the wines showed well, if not as immediately enjoyable as 2019. The wines do not have the same consistency from top to bottom, but the peaks are very high, and many believe this vintage to have the highest peaks of any vintage since 2016. The wines are dense, concentrated and remarkably fresh with strong tannic backbones designed for long-term ageing.
The last time I tasted the breadth of the 2020 vintage was at the Southwold Group tasting in January. Blind and in high volume, the wines were difficult to get into, not quite as pleasurable as the 2019s. There were some hard edges here, some elevated alcohol there. Yet, at the top, there were some remarkable wines. Just 10 months later, the wines had opened up surprisingly quickly. Make no mistake, they are dense and structured with impressive concentration as expected, but the fruit has risen to the front, matching the chewy, penetrating structure. I would still lie these wines down until they are 10+ years old, but their lip-smacking, almost saline character gives them a delicious and moreish quality. The best wines in the room to me were Canon, Montrose and Cheval Blanc. Pichon Lalande, Troplong Mondot, Haut Brion and Margaux all showed very well, and in the more affordable category I would put my money on wines such us Grand Puy Lacoste, Langoa Barton and Brane Cantenac. I still believe 2019 to be the most consistent vintage in recent years, but those who took risks, had the right terroirs and solved the puzzles of growing season and elevage were able to make wines that may be their best ever.
2022 is quite clearly different – the fruit across the board at the UGC tasting had an immediate and lingering sweetness to it. Like 2020, there is serious variability from producer to producer, but the peaks are high. Some of the key players no longer show at the tasting but Canon, Léoville Barton, Troplong Mondot, Carmes Haut Brion and Pichon Lalande were all superb. My reluctance to put this vintage in the top tier, at least yet, is a combination of that sweeter fruit profile – which is incredibly seductive in the best examples but a little cloying in those who didn’t get it right – and the general balance of fruit-acid-tannin that seems a little off. Some are too soft, some have jarring edges. To my mind this is a vintage with great wines, rather than a great vintage. Domaine de Chevalier, Grand Puy Lacoste and Berliquet struck me as fine examples released under £750 a dozen, better than many of the more illustrious and highly priced wines in their respective appellations.
Prices are a sore point in 2022. The subject is difficult to extricate from any assessment of the vintage. The Bordelais did not reduce their prices enough for the 2021 vintage and, as a result, 2022s were often released at too high a price. In a few instances wines were released at a level completely out of touch with the market and the available great wines from previous vintages. There are outstanding wines to be had in 2022, but it is worth looking carefully at how the price stacks up against a producer's 2020, 2019 and 2016, all of which are arguably better vintages in most cases.
One of my strongest takeaways from this pair of tastings is the importance of property as much as vintage. Bordeaux has lived and died on the reputation of each vintage as a whole but, increasingly, it is important to shift more towards a Burgundian way of thinking: to follow the properties working at the forefront of innovation and quality is just as important, if not more so. Châteaux Montrose, Troplong Mondot, Pichon Lalande, Canon and Carmes Haut Brion are just a handful of names that prove this point. All these wines are true standouts in both years, as well as most other recent vintages. The financial resources and technical mastery these properties have allows them to mitigate all but the worst climatic conditions and produce wines with strong identities and invariably of very high quality. Of course, many wines elevate themselves in the great vintages – something that makes 2019 such a great vintage is the confidence with which you can buy at any price point – but there are a few worth following year in, year out.
Notes on some of the highlights of the tastings are below.
Montrose 2020 - 100 points
"I have been lucky enough to taste Montrose 2020 three times in the last month. A powerhouse of a wine that defines the pinnacle of modern left bank Bordeaux, it matches and in some cases surpasses the first growths this year. Saturated inky purple in the glass, the nose has superb vibrancy and intensity for such a youthful wine laden with ripe black fruit. Notes of graphite, cedar, violets and cleverly judged wood spice jump from the glass, each element dazzling in its precision and clarity. This continues on the palate; to have such weight of fruit and structure carried without excess in perfect balance is a remarkable feat. Penetrating cassis, hedgerow fruit, cedar and charcoal embers all come through with just a hint of espresso. A wine defined by purity and depth, the tannins are chalky, mouthcoating and powerful yet always matched by fruit. This is just the start for one of Bordeaux’s benchmark wines of the modern era. As impressive as it is now it is worth cellaring it as long as you can bear, this is a wine that will live for decades. The finish is minutes long. Outstanding."
Canon 2020 - 99 points
"This wine gets better and better each time I taste it in bottle. Deep purple in colour with a gravelly, expansive nose that is starting to yield from its tightly wound nature last year. Black cherry, pressed flowers and cocoa together with a hint of espresso. This is already so complex but everything is in sharp focus. The palate is so refined, the tannins very fine and ripe but plentiful, coating the dark fruit at the core. The persistent grip has a saline edge from clever use of oak. This is not flamboyant, rather an intense, driven and remarkably pure wine. Despite needing time, you keep going back to your glass for more, it is absolutely captivating. Very long, deep and layered on the finish. Outstanding - I wonder if 99 points is still a little cautious."
Cheval Blanc 2020 - 98 points
"Perfumed and luxuriant, this is a seductive Cheval Blanc. Mocha, violets, graphite and sweet red fruit all come through on the nose. The palate is led by cashmere tannins, leaving the palate open to showcase its perfumed, intense fruit core. Milk chocolate, sweet roasted plums, cherry liqueur and a hint of more edgy blackcurrant all come through. There are subtle notes of dried herbs, but this impressive wine is led by its redolent nature. Excellent."
Margaux 2020 - 97+ points
"Deep, precise and chiselled, the 2020 Margaux unfurls in the glass with pure cassis fruit on the nose, accented with just a hint of liquorice, clove and freshly roasted coffee beans. The palate wraps up this ripe and dark fruit in silky, ripe tannins, keeping everything focused and tightly wound. The underlying ripeness is there to see but it is not overbearing, coiled tightly by the structure. Chalky and pure to a very long finish, this remains a tight and very youthful wine that is destined for the long haul."
Pichon Lalande 2020 - 97 points
"Expressive and quite open already, Pichon Lalande is exuberant and luxuriant for a 2020. Succulent black fruit comes in waves on nose and palate, together with some seductive wood spice and a hint of mocha. Velvet tannins give a pliant texture, creating a glossy mouthfeel that bursts with black fruit, liquorice and espresso. Despite the plush nature of this wine, it remains finely balanced, tightening towards the back end due to the sheer weight of tannins. A wine that manages the impressive feat of remaining serious despite its charming and immediate pleasure."
Troplong Mondot 2020 - 96+ points
"Bright ruby purple in the glass, the nose here is intoxicating, ripe but highly fragrant, with succulent red cherries, plums, soy and exotic spices. The palate is so impressive, almost delicate with its high toned fruit but glossy and supple, expanding with darker fruit, griottes cherries and spices in the glass. Notes of iron match the floral tones, creating a complex, moreish and saline character. Another brilliant effort for the new Troplong Mondot."
Grand Puy Lacoste 2020 - 95+ points
"Deep purple in the glass, this is a wine with a real sense of place. Graphite, blackcurrant and cedar come through on a focused nose. The palate is chiselled, with al dente tannins giving it bite and chew. The fruit is moreish, dark but tangy thanks to vibrant acidity. This is lip-smacking and delicious, with admirable restraint but power and presence. Excellent, likely worthy of a higher score once mature. Open from 10 years old."
Brane Cantenac 2020 - 95 points
"There is much to be said for a wine that speaks of its appellation, and that is Brane Cantenac's brilliance in 2020. There is some toasty wood immediately on the nose, but this quickly falls into fragrant blue fruit, red and purple flowers and a wonderful, harmonising note of dried rosemary. The palate is vibrant, juicy and fine-boned, with chalky tannins giving direction and focus, lifting all the fruit into fragrant, floral tones. This is a wine with brilliant flow, it weaves between riper dark fruit from the vintage and herbal, zesty tones synonymous with the Médoc. Chalky through to the finish, this offers a lot for the money and is another great effort in a run of strong vintages at this property."
Langoa Barton 2020 - 95 points
"A terrific wine for the money, Langoa Barton bursts from the glass with bold, juicy black fruit and measured wood spice. The palate is supple on entry, juicy with layers of cassis, dark plum and morello cherries. Underneath, ripe and broad tannins supply ample structure for the fruit, but the balance is less on the deep, enveloping structure of the Léoville Barton. There is so much to like here, this is deep, spicy and endowed with ripe but not overbearing fruit, always in balance with admirable acidity. A true Grand Vin, it will be delicious from a decade old, perhaps even a year or two earlier."
Carmes Haut Brion 2022 - 98 points
"The transformation at Carmes Haut Brion is one of the most impressive anywhere in Bordeaux over the last decade. The 2022 might represent the best yet, though there is stiff competition in recent vintages. Blueish purple in the glass, the nose is intense and idiosyncratic, full of black pepper, rosemary, blueberries and fragrant pressed flowers. The palate follows in the same vein, with supreme lift giving floral overtones and fresh, juicy blueberry and red cherry fruit. There is a hit of graphite, rosemary and dried herbs, together with the subtlest hints of savoury spice. There is real gloss to the tannins here - as in every recent vintage at Carmes - these wines are designed not to shut down and drink beautifully in their youth as well as in maturity. Fans of Domaine Jamet in Côte Rôtie (like me) will love this wine, there is more than a nod to the northern Rhône in the fragrance and winemaking style. But the Cabernets (Franc and Sauvignon) and Merlot offer something different in fruit profile and structure. I expect the successes of the pioneering experiments made at this estate will expand further around Bordeaux in coming years. This is an outstanding, bold and unique take on Pessac-Léognan."
Pichon Lalande 2022 - 97+ points
"A clear star of the 2022 vintage, Pichon Lalande builds on its very strong catalogue of wines from the last decade and is as impressive from bottle as it was from barrel. Deep purple in the glass, the nose is seductive, sweet and powerful, layering cassis, baking spices, sweet tobacco and just a hint of liquorice. The palate is cashmere smooth, the serious weight of tannins fully cloaked by luxurious, glossy black fruit. The spices are sweet, savoury and smoky, coming in waves but never dominating the fruit. This feels like a wine with no hard edges, a remarkable feat given it is clearly laden with ripe tannins underneath. Very impressive to be so giving, delicious and sweet yet not overdone or blousy. It should age gracefully in bottle for decades."
Canon 2022 - 97+ points
"A bold, ripe vintage for Canon, the 2022 has a sweet, succulent nose of dark cherry, violet and blueberry. There is a good hit of expensive, luxurious wood smoke, but the intensity of the fruit masks it well. The palate shows more depth and focus, with stony blackcurrant, blueberry and black cherry fruit. Though the texture is opulent and rounded, there is a clear weight of tannin underneath. This powerhouse has all the credentials to continue improving in bottle - intensity, harmony and intrigue - I suspect it will warrant a higher score in time."
Troplong Mondot 2022 - 97 points
"Aymeric de Gironde and his team have laid a new marker for the style they want to produce at this property in 2022. Almost Burgundian, the nose here is succulent and led by polished red fruits. Sweet red cherries, strawberries and plums all come through with subtle, lightly sweet baking spices. The palate is luscious but fleet-footed, bursting with redolent red fruits. Sappy, fine-grained tannins prop up the fruit. Glossy in texture and intense without being heavy, this is a marvellous effort, with lingering bright acidity refreshing each wave of ripe fruit. Long and lifted on the finish, this is a wine that clearly translates the vision of those in charge."
Léoville Barton 2022 - 97 points
"A superb 2022, where the property's natural propensity to structure adds depth, power and longevity to a vintage where many wines seem open and soft. Dark and seductive with notes of cassis, black cherries, blackberries and charcoal embers. The palate shows the glossy, primary plushness of the vintage on entry but quickly focuses into dark fruit which is enveloped by ripe but plentiful and chalky tannin. Pure and linear, this is a driven, ageworthy wine that is a good choice for those looking to lay something down this year."
Domaine de Chevalier Rouge 2022 - 96+ points
"Adorned with its special label, the galloping horse from 1941, this year's Domaine de Chevalier is a very strong effort for the vintage. Crushed rocks, wood smoke, charcoal embers and polished, deep black fruits come through on the nose. The structure is ever-present but very refined and ripe, with silky, lightly chalky tannins carrying succulent fruit at the core. As with all the best wines from this estate, there is an earthy, bonfire-like smokiness not solely down to oak. This personality gives the wine gravitas that matches the joyous, fleshy fruit. The finish is long and expansive, with cigar leaf, burning embers and more of that powerful dark fruit. Very well made."
Grand Puy Lacoste 2022 - 95+ points
"An excellent wine in 2022 which when compared to some of the sweetness from many wines throughout Bordeaux has a good sense of place. The nose opens with fine blackcurrant and dark cherry fruit, lined with just a touch of cedar and wood spice. The palate has the silky entry synonymous with the vintage, ripe fruit unfurling and coating ripe and soft tannins. But, there is some bite here and a crunch thanks to notes of red cherry, chalky hedgerow fruit and more subtle, savoury wood spice. A refined, well-made wine that still clings to what it means to be from the Médoc."
Berliquet 2022 - 93+ points
"Berliquet has stepped up in recent vintages under Chanel's ownership and the 2022 is the best bottled vintage to date. Supple, sweet cherry fruit, a little dried strawberry, vanilla bean and pastry crust come through on the nose. The palate is pure silk, this will offer superb drinking pleasure in its youth. Smooth, ripe tannins allow the glistening red fruit at the core to shine through. There is a little graphite to go with the notes of cherry pie, keeping everything in check and adding a brightness to the wine. Fine acidity moves the fruit into floral overtones, giving an aromatic, lingering finish. A great wine for those looking for something that packs a punch with an open drinking window for the mid-term."
