Robert Parker
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The wine world has been waiting for uber-critic Robert Parker to reveal his judgement and scores for the 2009 Bordeaux vintage now that he has tasted all the finished wines from bottle for the first time. To say that he is ecstatic about this vintage would be somewhat of an under-statement! He describes it as “Unquestionably the greatest Bordeaux vintage I have ever tasted.” He praises the classed growths (and gives them enormous scores) but he also declares that the quality is fantastic across the board – at cru bourgeois level and even petit vins and generic Bordeaux. He concludes that 2009 is the finest vintage since 1982 (therefore surpassing 1989, 1990, 2000 and 2005) but believes that the standards of winemaking are much higher than they were in 1982 and that therefore the wines are significantly better. This is, as he says, “1982 but greater”.
If this praise was not enough, Mr Parker then goes on to say that “2009 may well go down as…….the single greatest vintage ever produced in Bordeaux since records have been kept. That’s a long time.”
A very valid point that he also makes is that the 2009 Bordeaux will have an extraordinarily (probably unique) “window of drinkability” as the low acidities and ripe fruit will allow them to be consumed in their youth or aged for many years and decades.
Pontet Canet - 100 points
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Bearing in mind that Robert Parker’s scores inevitably change the market prices for Bordeaux wines it is very worthwhile for consumers and investors to analyse them quickly now that they have just been released. He does add, almost in anticipation of any criticism that he has been too generous with his ratings, that the increase in the number of high scoring wines genuinely reflects the unique quality of the vintage’s wines and he strongly refutes any suggestion that he has changed the way that he scores the wines or that his scores are in any way “inflationary”.
The scores are certainly off the charts. In the last great Bordeaux vintage, 2005, just 2 wines received 100 points. In 2009 there are no less than 19 wines with the perfect score.
It is fascinating to realise that The Wine Advocate gives the ultimate 100 points to only 2 wines from non-First Growth classed growth Chateaux in any previous vintage – these are Pichon Lalande 1982 and Montrose 1990, wines that sell at around £400 per bottle. They are suddenly joined today by 2009 Léoville Poyferré, Montrose, Pontet Canet, Ducru Beaucaillou and Cos d’Estournel (“one of the greatest young wines that I have ever tasted”). These are in addition to several right bank wines and the first wine from the Graves (apart from Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion) ever to receive a perfect score – 2009 Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge.
A further 11 wines have a score of 99 or 99+ and a further 16 have 98 or 98+. There are names here like Lafite and Margaux but also some “best ever” scores for Chateaux such as Saint Pierre which joins the “super-second” league for the first time.
Cos d'Estournel 2009 - “one of the greatest young wines that I have ever tasted”
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However it’s not only the expensive big names that have praise heaped on them by Mr Parker. Our old friend, and firm Farr Vintners favourite, Chateau Gloria receives a 93 point rating and is described as “maybe the value of the vintage” and another wine that is extremely popular with Farr Vintners’ customers, the modestly priced cru bourgeois, Chateau Senejac, receives a “best ever” rating of 93 points – equalling that of far more expensive names such as Beychevelle, Léoville Barton, Carruades Lafite and Pavillon Rouge. Another good value recommendation is the 91+ rated Chateau Cantemerle that is still available at the opening price of £250, proving that you don’t have to break the bank to buy a 2009 Classed Growth.
Robert Parker’s 2009 Vintage Report is available on his web site www.erobertparker.com