In early January 2012 I tutored a wine dinner in Hong Kong consisting of 15 Pauillacs from the great vintages of the last 30 years. 2009 back to 1982.
Amuse Bouche
|
The venue was "Amuse Bouche" restaurant on the 22nd floor of the Hennessey building in the Wan Chai district of Hong Kong Island. A delicious menu was created for the dinner by the ‘Amuse Bouche’ team with Iberico Pork from Spain and lamb from Scotland.
Pauillac is, for me, the real heart of Bordeaux that consistently produces many of the finest wines of the region. It is home to many of the world’s greatest Cabernet Sauvignon based wines. For this dinner we decided to skip the First Growths and focus on some of their near neighbours - many of whose wines still offer good value for money at a small fraction of their prices.
Two 2009 Pauillacs
|
We kicked off with a pair of 2009’s. Now that the wines are all safely in bottle this is really shaping up to be a truly great vintage . It reminds me of 1959 (or perhaps 1982) as the wines are clearly outstanding yet amazingly approachable at this early stage, thanks to their ripe tannins, opulent rich fruit and relatively low acidities. Like 1959, I believe that this is a vintage that will give delicious early drinking yet, will provide bottles that will last for half a century or more. I was reminded of this the day before the tasting when we visited one of Farr Vintners’ longest-standing and most distinguished HK customers who told us that the bottle that got him hooked on fine wine was a Latour 1959 that he had with partridge in the restaurant of the Grosvenor House in the Autumn of 1963. He’s been drinking great Bordeaux wine ever since.
Armailhac 2009 - this was always a stunner from barrel and it is certainly an incredibly ‘sexy’ wine from the bottle. The nose is really exotic with lots of spice, tobacco leaf, cigar box, vanilla and rich fruit. The palate is plump and plummy and incredibly opulent and inviting. It really would not be a crime to drink (rather than just taste) this wine tonight. A hugely opulent, decadent Pauillac that will give huge pleasure for the short or long term. A great example of 2009 at its exuberant best. 16.5
Clerc Milon 2009 – despite being produced by the same people in the same appellation this is a very different wine. Apparently it only contains 50% Cabernet sauvignon (very low for Pauillac) but you’d never guess. It is certainly less showy on the nose than the Armailhac with classic aromas of crème de cassis, lead pencil and wood shavings. The palate is firm and structured with impressively dense black fruit. Quite firm with dominant tannins in control at this stage despite the weight of fruit. This needs time but it has great potential. Mini-Mouton. 16.5+
The First Flight
|
Grand Puy Lacoste 2005 – The first of a pair of 2005’s. This is a great vintage that is certainly not ready to drink at the top end. Even the cru bourgeois wines could do with a few more years in my opinion. This GPL is certainly still in its shell and won’t be emerging in its full glory for another 3-4 years. A classic cedary nose. The palate is quite closed and discreet but there is plenty of black, cassis fruit that is currently gripped by a tight, tannic structure. Very pure, classy and elegant. The most noticeable part of this wine is the long finish. This is going to be very good indeed when it’s ready. 17+
Lynch Bages 2005 – A very impressive black colour. This is much more of a show-off than the GPL. A huge, wafting nose of black olives and blackcurrants. The palate is rich and opulent with notes of leather, eucalyptus, cedar and black fruit. Solid and chunky with a serious kick of tannin coming through on the long finish. Serious stuff, it needs another 5 years at least. This backwards Lynch has a long life ahead of it. 18
Duhart Milon 2003 – What a complete and utter contrast to the previous wine! This is a real hedonist’s delight. Incredibly forward and sexy. The colour is already fading at the rim. The sweet nose is more ‘new world’ than Pauillac and I’d defy anyone to guess this right blind. Full of Asian spices, vanilla and cream, this gorgeous wine is so seductive that it’s hard not to swig it. Smooth, round, lovely. Claret isn’t meant to be this much fun! An extreme example of this atypical Bordeaux vintage. 16.5
Pontet Canet 2003 – A fascinating comparison, this is a 2003 Bordeaux that actually has some firm tannins. A very deep colour indeed with none of the usual 2003 brown fade. The nose is serious and full of dark cassis, barbequed meat and cigar-box. The palate is jam-packed with dark fruit, liquorice, damsons and spice. The acidity might be low but this certainly has ‘grip’. Powerful, classic and solid. This is one of the few 2003’s that I would say is not ready yet. First Growth density and quality. Hugely impressive. 18.5
Eyes down
|
Grand Puy Lacoste 2000 – Showing a little bit of fade and looking like a wine that’s thinking about becoming ‘mature’. There is fragrant, ripe, red fruit on the nose with some lovely spicy notes. The palate is now approaching its drinking window. There is rich fruit, balanced by fine but not obtrusive tannins. Classy and complex, with great Pauillac typicity. Finely balanced. Very sophisticated. 17.5+
Pichon Baron 2000 – A deep colour, very dark at the centre. Big, classic Cabernet Sauvignon nose. The palate is stacked with leather, spice, plums and black currants. Seriously powerful and dense. The tannins are in perfect balance with the fruit. This is going to be a brilliant Pauillac to drink over the next 20 years or so. A real ‘tour de force’ from Pichon Baron. 18.5
Lynch Bages 1995 – After a cracking pair of 2000’s , our first 1995 was somewhat of a disappointment. There’s nothing wrong with this wine but it’s just not in the same league as this property’s 1996 or 2000. Nicely mature, this is proper aged claret that is at its peak. It lacks a bit of intensity and is medium weight with a slightly short finish. Nice enough but not a winner in this tasting. 15.5
Pichon Lalande 1995 – Clearly superior, although the colour is similar. There is much more on the nose here with good spice and red cherry fruit. The palate is lovely. Smooth, creamy and plump with a round mouth-feel. A very polished effort with rounded tannins. Very attractive if not truly profound. 17
The Big Guns
|
Grand Puy Lacoste 1990 – Showing some fade at the rim. A lovely nose of spice, tobacco and red fruits. The palate is sensationally creamy and smooth (more Pomerol than Pauillac) with a plump, silky texture. Low acidity, polished and gorgeous. Silk in a glass. 18.5
Pichon Baron 1990 – There is fade on the rim here too. Surprisingly sweet tonight. Sexy and opulent with lots of glycerol. This is a wine that has promised much for years and is now really delivering. The tannins have melted away and it is now, suddenly, at its peak of maturity. Super-smooth and plump and very close in style and quality to the GPL. Maybe a touch more power. I’ve been drinking this wine for years (first tried in bottle at Southwold January 1994) and it always had immense promise that has now turned into reality. The last few bottles I’ve had suggest that there is no point in waiting any longer. This is ready to go….18.5+
Lynch Bages 1989 – Still a deep black colour (darker than the two 1990’s). A big cassis nose. Super-rich and ripe. Really classic, strapping and intense. Very much a Pauillac with a strong Cabernet Sauvignon character. The fruit is so big and strong that the tannins seem soft in comparison. Complex, creamy, ripe. Not really a typical Lynch because it so decadent and opulent. Fabulous wine. Better than any Medoc First Growth in this vintage. 19+
Pichon Baron 1989 – This matches the famous Lynch Bages 1989 stride for stride. Tonight it is certainly a notch above the Pichon Baron 1990 with a slightly darker colour. Not as opulent and sweet but better balance, more grip and intensity. A touch of liquorice, black pepper and Asian spices compliment the cassis fruit. Strong, powerful and persistant. More or less at its peak but will stay there for the next 10 years. Great stuff. 19+
Stephen Browett tells everyone why he loves Pauillac
|
Grand Puy Lacoste 1982 – At 30 years of age this still has an impressive colour (it looks younger than 2003 Duhart Milon!). Big and powerful on the nose. A wonderfully opulent wine full of prunes and spice. Multi-dimensional and complex. Sweet yet structured. Intense and long with lingering flavours of roasted meat, saddle leather and sweet plums. A great wine. I bet that this would beat Lafite 1982 in any blind tasting! 19.5
This was a wonderful tasting that really showed the great Pauillac appellation at its best. Thanks to all our guests who made it a fun evening and the excellent staff of ‘Amuse Bouche’ who had an awful lot of glasses to wash when we left.
