Volnay Clos des Ducs, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 2021

The Clos des Ducs and Champans were a little less affected by the frost, with 15 barrels of each made. Quite discreet at first, which is not unusual, then an explosion on the second half of the palate. One can really see the class of this terroir, offering subtly nuanced red fruit with raspberry and alpine strawberry. Guillaume d’Angerville reports that the Clos des Ducs is fattening up nicely during the elevage. Definitely the most complex wine. Drink from 2028-2035.

A slightly more restrained nose grudgingly offers up its aromas of red currant, floral, spice and vaguely garrigue-like wisps. There is outstanding intensity to the slightly bigger and more powerful yet still gorgeously textured flavors that also exhibit a borderline pungent minerality that seems to build on the compact, serious and youthfully austere finish that displays stunningly good length. As is virtually always the case with Clos des Ducs, extended patience will absolutely be necessary.

The 2021 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs is more reserved than the Champans, unwinding to reveal scents of plums, wild berries, vine smoke, spices and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, ample and seamless, with powdery tannins and excellent depth at the core, it's bright and perfumed, concluding with a long, saline finish.