Brunello di Montalcino, Biondi Santi 2018

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino is gorgeous, floral and finessed, wafting up with a classic Sangiovese profile blending dried rose and black cherries, complicated by dusty earth, worn leather and hints of cedar spice. This shows a beautiful ripeness of fruit, pure and lifted yet potent, with masses of red, wild berries and inner florals that cascade across a core of zesty acidity. This finishes long and staining with regal tannins and a tart cranberry tinge that lingers on and on. Simply magnificent, the 2018 takes the perfumed character of the vintage and marries perfectly to a core of vividly intense fruit. This is entirely atypical of the vintage and the result of extreme selection that reduced production quantities by 20%. 2026-2036

The 2018 was just the second harvest under new ownership for Biondi Santi. CEO Giampiero Bertolini says that picking started late by the estate’s standards. They waited until 25 September, by which time the strong north wind had an opportunity to dry out the vineyards. The results in the bottle are impressive: cool fragrances of juniper, coriander, pepper and liquorice root leave room for a more subtle violet expression. The palate is decidedly red fruited with pomegranate and sour cherry nuanced by herb flowers, with an underlying stony-mineral crunch. Not lacking in concentration – yet by no means robust – this is graciously weighted. Nor does it have the scratchy bite of a young Biondi Santi Brunello. Instead, tannins are fine-boned and suede-like. Racy acidity is in the driver’s seat bringing focus, linearity and a vibrancy that pops on the finish. 2026-2039