While the 1.5m Chardonnay sibling is arguably more impressive on release, this is resinous and latent with multitudinous layers of flavour compressed by classy oak and juicy acidity. I like the way the fruit is subdued in a quasi-burgundian fashion, with power packed behind. It will come. And it does. With air. Raw almond, hazelnut, quinine and Japanese radish. The barest hint of stone fruit. A long, saline linger. Give this time, for it is among the country’s greats.
Very pale lemon in colour, a piercing nose of lime, lemon peel and struck flint hits with intensity and precision. The palate is incisive with steely acidity, crystaline citrus fruit and more of the flinty smokiness from the nose. This is pristine and deep, with a tightly wound fruit core that has great ageing potential. Lithe and long, this is a lipsmacking, tense style.