Keltern Chardonnay, Villa Maria Estate 2021

Cuddling skinny people is no fun at all. I wouldn't want to hug me - there's nothing to get hold of, but the 2021 Chardonnay Keltern has curves in all the right places and plenty of substance to hold on to in its middle. Sumptuous is probably a good word to describe the ripe and creamy, full body but don't get the impression this is a soft pudding of a wine. Its rich power is held like a vise, keeping its shape and allowing for a firm, almost relentless finish. In the elite of New Zealand Chardonnays, the 2021 proves it rightly deserves its place.

I like the flinty and subtly smoky notes here with sea shell undertones to the ripe apricots, grapefruits, peaches and toasted hazelnuts. It's full-bodied with bright acidity. Layered and sophisticated, with a beautiful balance of perfectly ripe fruit, spice and minerality. Long and textured. Sustainable. Drink or hold. Screw cap.