Diana Madeline Cabernet/Merlot, Cullen Wines 2021

The 2021 Diana Madeline is composed of Cabernet Sauvignon (91%), Merlot (4%), Cabernet Franc (3%) and Malbec (2%). The only other time since the first 1995 vintage of this wine (formerly labeled as the Cabernet Merlot) that the percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon has crested 90% or higher was the 2016 vintage, which saw 93% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 2021 vintage in Margaret River was an interesting one, with several climate curveballs thrown at viticulturists during key times during the harvest season. Here, the fruit was handpicked on biodynamic fruit and flower days across five picks from the middle of March to the Super Moon flower day two weeks later. The wine was matured in French oak for 15 months (50% new). This 2021 is a lean, mineral rendition of the Diana Madeline, with bay leaf, rose petals, cassis, bramble and black tea forming layers that settle in the mouth. The tannins are grippy and very fine, causing one to chew slightly as one drinks. This is ethereal, as these wines often are, yet with line and length that belies its pretty curves and textures. The perfect, ideal apogee for this wine's drinking window is in the future. Get it while you can.

A nose of blackcurrant, tobacco leaf, graphite and moss. Medium- to full-bodied with chewy, structured tannins. Linear onto the palate with an array of black fruit and savory herbs. Oolong and bark. Lovely balance and depth. A bit closed at the moment but will open and expand with some age. 91% cabernet sauvignon, 4% merlot, 3% cabernet franc and 2% malbec. From biodynamically grown grapes.