Chardonnay Estate, Kumeu River 2022

Aromas and flavors of sliced apples, lemon curd and hints of stone. Oyster shell. Lime undertones. It’s medium-bodied. Firm and fine phenolics. Tension and focus. Impressive for the vintage. Drink now or hold. Screw cap.

The 2022 Estate Chardonnay is nutty and svelte, with white peach, pastry, apricot kernel, brine and even a hint of malt biscuit through the finish. The wine has breadth and girth to it; it's not at all compact, but it's tight in texture. So, all things being equal, it's an exciting Chardonnay. This is from six different sites in the Kumeu area, with wine aging on lees in 20% new oak (just about all François Frères) for approximately 11 months. Everything goes 100% malolactic fermentation, wild primary ferment, and malolactic fermentation is a mixture of inoculation and wild. From 2024, they will not be inoculating malolactic fermentation, as "the wild yeasts seem to be the most reliable," explains Michael Brajkovich. Lovely acid. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Some real richness on the nose. Then a green streak. Very fine texture! With Puligny savour and lift. Creamy yet fresh. Bullseye for the style. Good light grip on the end. Convincing. GV. 13%. Drink 2023 – 2028

The ever-reliable Estate Chardonnay is a success again this year. Very pale in colour with a highly refined perfume of fresh pear, white peach and a little sandalwood. It has already opened up in the last six months and is showing a beautiful light smokiness from reduction. The palate has a superb sheen, with white fruits and flowers slick and refined, harmonious with a kick of savoury spices from well-judged use of oak. There is depth to the fruit, and a gentle creaminess that should build as this ages in bottle. Limes and a hint of charred wood drive to the finish, which is long and focused. This will drink well over the coming decade - I'd be tempted to decant now, or wait six months before approaching.